10

srijeda

siječanj

2007

KUHARICA U JAPANU III: Jela od teletine



Evo jednog jednostavnog recepta za jelo na bazi teletine, u Japanu neobicno popularnog: gyudon. Posluzuje se u zdjelicama, a kako je priprema brza i jednostavna, ovo jelo u Japanu odavno vazi kao fast food. Cak postoji lanac restorana koji posluzuju gyudon (tzv. gyudonya). Ovo jelo lako je spremiti i kod kuce, uz nekoliko osnovnih sastojaka iz japanske kuhinje: sveto trojstvo sake-mirin-sojin umak. Jede se stapicima !


TELETINA NA JAPANSKI NACIN (Gyudon)

Za 4 osobe:

780 g kuhane rize
400 g tanko narezane teletine
1 luk
Umak:
240 ml dashi bujona
4 zlice sakea
4 zlice mirina
4 zlice sojinog umaka

dodaci: crveni djumbir (beni shouga)
shichimi togarashi (mjesavina 7 zacina na bazi papra)
----------------------------------------------------

1. Teletinu narezati na tanke rezance duzine oko 4 cm.
2. Luk prerezati napola, obje polovice narezati po duzini na ploske debljine 1 cm.
3. U vecoj posudi zajedno promijesati sastojke za umak, zakuhati na jakoj vatri do vrenja, zatim dodati luk.
4. Ponovno zakuhati do vrenja, dodati teletinu i na laganoj vatri kuhati u poklopljenoj posudi dok luk ne omeksa (5-10 min.).
5. U zdjelice usipati vrucu rizu i na nju poloziti teletinu u umaku. Eventualno ukrasiti djumbirom, za jaci i ljuci okus posuti shichimi togarashijem.




Gyudon




Jos jedno popularno jelo jest riza s teletinom u umaku od curryja (Karee raisu). Iako je curry originalno indijski zacin, u Japanu je postao vrlo popularan i prihvacen kao domaci. Prodaje se u kocki cija ljutina varira od 1 do 5. Iz nekog je razloga curry omiljeno djecje jelo: posluzuju ga u vrticima, zooloskim vrtovima i zabavnim parkovima. Mnogi restorani na meniju imaju ‘karee raisu’. I naravno, iako je u pitanju jelo od rize, Japanci ga jedu viljuskom, ne stapicima !

CURRY S RIZOM (Karee raisu)

Za 4 osobe:

600 g kuhane rize
400 g teletine
1 luk
2/3 mrkve
1 krumpir
sol, papar, biljno ulje za przenje
curry u kocki
-------------------------------

1. Teletinu, luk, mrkvu i krumpir narezati na kockice ili komade velicine zalogaja. Teletinu posoliti i popapriti.
2. U dublju posudu za przenje uliti biljno ulje. Dodati sve sastojke pod 1. i prziti na jakoj vatri uz stalno mijesanje. Nakon nekoliko minuta dodati 600 ml vode, poklopiti i dinstati na laganoj vatri 10-15 min. dok povrce ne omeksa.
3. Nakon toga dodati smrvljeni curry i mijesati dok se ne otopi. Kuhati jos nekoliko minuta na laganoj vatri da se umak zgusne (po potrebi dodati curry ako je umak prerijedak).
4. Kuhanu rizu staviti na tanjur i preliti gotovim umakom.



1) Curry s rizom, 2) curry u kocki



Ova su jela od teletine zanimljiva i iz historijske perspektive. Budisticki zakoni Japancima su stoljecima zabranjivali jesti meso. Izuzetak su bili sumo borci, koji su svoju snagu crpili iz obilnih obroka na bazi mesa, narocito teletine, a tako je i danas. S dolaskom stranaca u Japan u 19. stoljecu nastala je potraznja za teletinom. Nakon Meiji restauracije 1868. g. u gradovima su nicali restorani koji su posluzivali teletinu i druge vrste mesa. Usporedo s tim, poceo se mijenjati i mentalitet ljudi koji su dotada jeli samo ribu i tradicionalna japanska jela. A to je neminovno mijenjalo i sliku cijelog drustva i pogled Japanaca na ostatak svijeta.
Evo jednog komicnog komentara na taj zanimljivi period mijesanja zapadnih i japanskih utjecaja u kasnom 19. stoljecu, u izvatku iz novele ‘The Beefeater’ ciji je autor Robun Kanagaki (1871). Izvadak donosim u engleskom prijevodu:


‘A man about thirty-five, rather swarthy it is true, but of clear complexion, thanks apparently to the daily use of soap, which purges all impurities. His hair, not having been cut for some hundred days, is long and flowing, and looks as if it is in the process of being let out altogether, in the foreign style. Naturally enough, he uses that scent called Eau de Cologne to give a sheen to his hair. He wears a padded silken kimono beneath which a calico undergarment is visible. By his side is his Western-style umbrella, covered in gingham. From time to time he removes from his sleeve with a painfully contrived gesture a cheap watch, and consults the time. As a matter of fact this is merely so much display to impress others, and the chain is only gold-plate. He turns to his neighbor, who is also eating beef, and speaks:
Excuse me, but beef is certainly a most delicious thing, isn’t it ? Once you get accustomed to its taste, you can never go back to deer or wild boar again. I wonder why we in Japan haven’t eaten such a clean thing before ? For over 1620 - or is it 1630 - years people in the West have been eating huge quantities of beef. Before then, I understand, beef and mutton were considered the king’s exclusive property, and none ever entered the mouth of a commoner, unless he happened to be something on the order of a daimyo’s chief retainer. We really should be grateful that even people like ourselves can now eat beef, thanks to the fact that Japan is steadily becoming a truly civilized country. Of course, there are some unenlightened boors who cling to their barbaric superstitions and say that eating meat defiles you so much that you can’t pray any more before Buddha and the gods. Such nonsense shows they simply don’t understand natural philosophy. Savages like that should be made to read Fukuzawa’s article on eating beef. In the West they’re free of superstitions. There it’s the custom to do everything scientifically, and that’s why they’ve invented amazing things like the steamship and the steam engine. Did you know that they engrave the plates for printing newspapers with telegraphic needles ? And that they bring down wind from the sky with balloons ? Aren’t they wonderful inventions ! Of course, there are good reasons behind these inventions. If you look at a map of the world you’ll see some countries marked “tropical”, which means that’s where the sun shines closest. The people in those countries are all burnt black by the sun. The king of that part of the world tried all kinds of schemes before he hit on what is called a balloon. That’s a big round bag they fill with air high up in the sky. They bring the bag down and open it, causing the cooling air inside the bag to spread out all over the country. That’s a great invention. On the other hand, in Russia, wich is a cold country where the snow falls even in summer and the ice is so thick that people can’t move, they invented the steam engine. You’ve got to admire them for it. I understand that they modeled the steam engine after the flaming chariot of hell, but anyway, what they do is to load a crowd of people on a wagon and light a fire in a pipe underneath. They keep feeding the fire inside the pipe with coal, so that the people riding on top can travel a great distance completely oblivious to the cold. Those people in the West can think up inventions like that, one after the other... You say you must be going ? Well, good-bye. Waitress ! Another small bottle of sake. And some pickled onions to go with it !’


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