Makarska, Croatia: Secret Seaside

Most visitors to Dalmatia head straight for the islands, but the Makarska Rivijera on the mainland coast, between Split and Dubrovnik, is home to some of the country’s loveliest stretches of beach. Running from Brela in the north to Gradac in the south, the riviera is 38 miles long and centres on Makarska.

Makarska itself is built around a deep sheltered bay, and backed by the dramatic rocky heights of Mount Biokovo (5,770ft), which acts as a buffer from the harsher inland climate. Biokovo’s sea-facing slopes are criss-crossed by well-marked trails, so besides swimming in the deep turquoise Adriatic, it’s possible to get in some hiking or mountain biking too.

Back in the 10th century, the Byzantine Emperor Constantine VII referred to this region as Pagania. The long narrow coastal strip, between the mouth of the River Cetina and the mouth of River Neretva, Pagania was named after its inhabitants, the Pagani. A rebellious people who lived from piracy, raiding passing galleys, the Pagani hadn’t accepted Christianity until the 9th century, far later than the other Slavs.

Nowadays things are somewhat more peaceful, with the locals making a living from fishing, olive oil and wine making, and tourism, but there’s still a rather pleasing, wild untouched feeling to the place. The settlements here remain small and villagey, with the exception of Makarska, with its lovely main square overlooked by the Baroque Church of St Mark and several elegant palazzi built by wealthy local merchants, recording 18th-century prosperity and refinement under Venice.

Text: telegraph.co.uk

Oznake: makarska, croatia

Vis, Croatia: an island fit for a Bond villain

I may have been driving a 50cc scooter rather than a gadget-enhanced Aston Martin but it was the theme tune to the 007 films that raced to mind as I rounded the corner of the spectacularly scenic road that winds its way through the northern extremity of the Croatian island of Vis. The reason? There across a glistening stretch of crystal-clear water was a sleek but slightly stark concrete opening built into the rocks that for years served as the entry and exit point for the submarines of the Yugoslav navy. It was impossible not to feel that somewhere deep within that crevice the villainous Stavro Blofeld still had a lair and that at any moment I would hear the immortal words: “I’ve been expecting you, Mr Bond.” The scooter offered an appreciative roar as I gave it full throttle (at one point reaching a heady 24mph). This was fun; this was living; this was holidaying in Croatia in late May with the delicious freshness of the early summer and the promise of yet warmer days ahead.

The road, bordered by trees and bushes coloured in the brilliant green of the season, carried on around a huge inlet of water within which, in another slightly Bondian twist, a wet-suited diver was preparing to explore. Then, rather abruptly, the Tarmac came to an end and we found ourselves continuing on a dirt track from which there were more dramatic views – this time out to the deep blue hues of the Adriatic Sea. We turned around and headed back towards the town of Vis, the principal settlement on the island, stopping only to venture down another rough track, at the end of which we rewarded ourselves with an exhilarating swim off the rocks.

We had hired the scooter (or Easy Rider as we preferred to call it) for six hours – plenty of time to explore an island that boasts only two main roads of approximately nine and 15 miles’ length, which link Vis and the island’s other main town, Komiza. From our base in the latter we took the longer, more scenic route, initially heading south along hairpin bends that afforded ever more wonderful vistas out towards the island of Bisevo and back to the extraordinarily picturesque red roofs of the harbour of Komiza itself. We then turned inland to head east and slightly north towards the promising sounding vineyard-strewn country of Plisko Polje.

There were stops along the way, the first involving a steepish ascent up most of what is serendipitously known as Hum Mountain to “Titova spilja” (Tito’s cave), the place to which for a while during the war, the leader of the Yugoslav partisan forces retreated to mastermind operations. The cave was sparse (it was presumably better furnished in Tito’s time), but for a military HQ, the beauty of the sheltered hillside setting could not be faulted. Further natural beauty awaited just a few miles ahead in the form of Stiniva beach, a perfectly formed white pebble cove framed by towering cliffs through which a small opening leads out to the sea. It being early season, for a while we had the place all to ourselves. But then through that tantalising crack through the cliffs we spied a yacht from which a dinghy was launched bearing fellow bathers. Back on the road – almost completely devoid of traffic – we tuned into the sight and intoxicating scents of the palm, pine, oleander and lavender bushes that lined it.

And around Plisko Polje we duly saw numerous signs bearing bunches of grapes and what we imagined were invitations to come and sample some of the local produce. We waited until we were on our way back before stopping at one – an idyllic little spot about half a mile off the road at which we were greeted by a benign-looking couple who spoke not a word of English but who understood only too well our need to pay homage to the great god of Bacchus.
We sat on their veranda, warmed by the early evening rays of the sun, the views of the vineyards beyond and the glasses of white and red (admittedly a tad rough and ready) for which we paid the princely sum of just over Ł1. And thus fortified, we were ready for the hairpin bends back to Komiza. The day on the scooter was undoubtedly the highlight of a week-long holiday in northern and central Dalmatia, which began with a glorious sunset in the city of Zadar, took in the medieval treasures of Trogir and ended with a sunrise stroll through the magnificent palace in Split in which the Roman Emperor Diocletian chose to retire and which today is home to scores of shops, bars and an underground market. As a result of its importance as a naval base in the former Yugoslavia, Vis was strictly out-of-bounds to tourists and the island retains a sleepy and, dare I say it, slightly undiscovered air. Perfect for all would-be easy riders.

Getting there
Adrian Bridge flew from London Stansted to Zadar with Ryanair (ryanair.com) and from Split to London Gatwick with easyJet (easyjet.com).

Staying there
Accommodation, which ranged from a sea-facing room in a delightfully arty hotel in Zadar to a modern apartment in Split and an entire house on Vis, was arranged through the website booking.com and averaged about Ł70 a night. Eat lobsters plucked from the sea directly beneath you at the unique Jastozera restaurant in Komiza.

Text: telegraph.co.uk

Oznake: vis, croatia

Makarska: Selling Fish Again along the Waterfront

After a five-month ban on the sale of fish from fishing boats moored along the Makarska town quay, fishermen from Tuesday, November 4 again can sell fish in the port.

This is the result of a meeting of fishermen agree with Makaranian Mayor Tonči Bilić and director of the County Port Authority Domagoj Maroević.

Fish with trawlers, purse seine and other fishing vessels, subject to compliance with the Ordinance on the wrong port, power will be sold to the town's waterfront in the operative part of the city port to Easter, told reporters Gradonacelik Bilic adding to fishermen selling fish in the port could allow next summer after it is completed the new breakwater. Namely, all the yachts and sailing boats to be moored at the docks of the newly built breakwater and the operative part of the port to be free for mooring fishing boats.

Fishermen are grateful to the City and the Port Authority that they otherwise by the decision five months suffered to sell fish in the city, port, and added that the fish along the waterfront sold for thirty years and from her and tourism live they and their families.

Thus the citizens of Makarska and further in the morning and afternoon will be able to buy fresh fish from the boats, and the city has been restored fishing tradition which is supported by the European Commission.

Oznake: makarska

Omis and its sport climbing in southern Croatia

One of the biggest and most interesting areas for sports climbing in southern Croatia is certainly Omiš. Located 20km south of Split and at the mouth of the river Cetina, this pleasant historical town is surrounded by large cliffs and wild canyons, offering circa 200 routes dotted around the 14 sectors with difficulties from 4a to 8b+. While most outings are single-pitch sport climbs, the great quality limestone walls also host some multi-pitch routes up to 300m.

As soon as you get to Omis you understand why it has been such a popular location for so long, and not only among climbers: the surroundings make it a haven for all types of outdoor activities including rafting and canyoning. One of the biggest advantages of Omiš is the fact that it is a great destination for families since most approaches are easy and there are plenty of routes ideal for beginners and recreational climbers.

After the climbing there are plenty of bars and restaurants in the town square from where to drink coffee and watch the climbers above, and of course there is also the beautiful Adriatic sea and its beaches.

With its spectacular views, amazing cliffs and potential for far more - such as the newest crag Perivoj developed in summer 2014 by Ivan Lisica - Omiš is an area which is well worth visiting.

Text: planetmountain.com

Oznake: omiš

Master of Wine Jo Ahearne picks 1st Hvar grapes with Andro Tomic

After moving to Croatia's premier island, Master of Wine Jo Ahearne picks her first grapes on a journey to produce quality Hvar wine. The island of Hvar's colourful 2,400-year wine story opened a new chapter on September 24, 2014, as Master of Wine Jo Ahearne brought the first freshly-picked grapes to the Bastijana winery in Jelsa, the first concrete step in her new direction to produce her own wine on Croatia's premier island.

Ahearne, who is one of only 314 Masters of Wine in the world, has had a short but intense relationship with Hvar wines, starting out as a guest at Dalmacija Wine Expo in Split in April, where she was pleasantly surprised by the quality and variety of Croatian wines, as she explained in an interview with Digital Journal at the time.

Oznake: hvar

Top 5 reasons to visit Dubrovnik in October

Dubrovnik is dubbed the ‘jewel of the Adriatic’ for its old town (or Stari Grad) set within city walls, which was built from the 13th century onwards.

A Unesco World Heritage listed site, it is made up of cobblestone streets, forts and museums. Despite being bombed heavily by Yugoslav forces in 1991, the city has been well preserved and is Croatia’s prime tourist destination.

Interested? You should be. And it’s getting close to one of the best times of year to go. Why? Here are five good reasons.

We’ll see you there…

1. There’s plenty of sun!
Not ready to wave cheerio to summer just yet? Luckily you don’t have to. Croatia’s dose of sun lasts longer than ours and Dubrovnik is the perfect place to enjoy an extended summer season. While the temperatures might not be as sweltering as they are during the months of July and August, the days do get up to the mid 20s (Celsius); just perfect for me to top up the old tan. Spoilt with pristine natural scenery, an ancient walled town and a very warm Adriatic (the sea in October maintains August temperatures), your days could be spent swimming, exploring and sipping sundowners at the Buza Bar, a bar hewn out of the cliffs (the name means ‘hole’), which is a famous Dubrovnik spot where everyone’s welcomed as a local, come dusk.


2. Ticket prices are much cheaper
Dubrovnik doesn’t claim to be a budget destination. It’s a fairly pricey holiday to plan though you realise the money spent is well worth it as you peak at the turquoise waters through your window when you’re coming in to land. But a little sensible spending is a good thing. Getting to Dubrovnik in October though is up to 60% cheaper than booking a ticket for the peak summer months! That’s no idle boast. We compared a four night/five day trip from a Wednesday to Sunday in August and a trip of the same duration in October and were astounded at the savings. We also checked three airlines (EasyJet, British Airways and Germanwings) and all three came back with substantial discounts.


3. The accommodation is cheaper too!
You’d have your work cut out for you if you wanted to spend time in Dubrovnik in the summer but left booking hotel accommodation ‘til the last minute. It goes quickly. Come early autumn though, the crowds disperse and the hotels make their rooms available at reduced rates. Whereas before you’d book a double room, you’re now able to afford a suite for the same rate. A lot of the hotels come with breakfast included in the nightly rate, which keeps costs down to a manageable level too.


4. Plenty of things to do
Banje Beach is the famous Croatian beach that appears in all the postcards. It is a lovely beach, and won’t be crowded. There are other beaches to explore too, with Cavtat and Plat close by (you’ll need to call a taxi or hire a car or motorbike to get to them). Just be forewarned, both Cavtat and Plat are naturist beaches so bathers can go naked should they wish. Mljet Island is also close enough for a visit. Dubrovnik houses 17 cathedrals and a synagogue within its walls and a walk through the town reveals stunning architecture. There are also lovely craft shops to visit and I can pick up the clothing item the country is known for, a cravat. All this vacation activity and fresh sea air will lead to a healthy appetite for sure...


5. Food
Dubrovnik’s cuisine has a noticeable Italian influence: risotto and pizza are local favourites, while olive oil and garlic feature heavily. Mea Culpa is a pizzeria in the Old Town where patrons are seated in the cobbled alleys and the size of the pizzas is legendary. Thanks to its location, the seafood is also unbeatable and one of the best places in town is Proto, which once hosted Wallis Simpson and Edward VIII. Croats love their ice cream too and Dubrovnik isn’t short of ice-creameries –word on the street is that Dubrovnik’s ice cream offering gives Rome’s a run for its money - so make sure you leave from for dessert.

PS., If you like beer, get used to saying “pivo”. Try Croatian beers Zlatorog or Ožujsko, which aren’t too bitter and are usually served on tap.


Read more: TNT Magazine

Oznake: dubrovnik

The acid test for the future of Hvar Town as tourist destination

The party tourism debate continues to dominate on Croatia's premier island of Hvar, and a unanimous town council decision brings clarity. But will its wishes be implemented? As another perfect day begins for many under azure skies on the island of Hvar, an open letter to the CEO of party tourism enterprise The Yacht Week on August 21, 2014, has once again highlighted the debate about the uneasy relationship between the island and its growing reputation as one of the world's leading party destinations. Home to the oldest public theatre in Europe, birthplace of organised tourism in Europe and the only island in the world with four UNESCO heritages, Hvar also suffers from an embarrassment of natural resources and beauty, and is known as the lavender island and also the sunniest in all Europe.

With such a wealth of natural and cultural heritage, the arrival of party tourism to an already successful tourism destination seemed initially to be one more string in the offer of the exclusive island, whose recent visitors have included Tom Cruise, Beyonce, Prince Harry and Ellen DeGeneres, but there have been growing concerns in recent times that the rapid rise of drunken party tourism was threatening both the image of the destination, as well as driving away tourists who enjoyed Hvar for its cultural and natural charms.
The most successful and high profile business of this new party tourism was The Yacht Week, an extremely professional and intelligent concept, which sells week-long sailing holidays around Croatia, with a heavy emphasis on drinking and partying from morning to the following early morning. The highlight for many is 'Hvarday', where the programme starts with first drinks at 10 a.m..

Hvarday continues with a party on the waterfront bar Carpe Diem from 5 p.m. - 8 p.m. where up to 500 party-goers enjoy three hours of loud music and boozing to the detriment of the quality businesses in the neighbourhood, before being free to do some sightseeing (many of them cannot see at all by this stage), drunkenly and loudly roaming the streets of what many see as a family destination, until the organised party continues from 1 a.m. until dawn at a club on an island a short water-taxi ride away.
The party excess on Hvar was famously likened to Sodom and Gomorrah last summer in the national press, and the new deputy mayor of Hvar, Fabijan Bronzovic, said that The Yacht Week would not be back in 2014. It was a decision that was reinforced in January when the town council unanimously against The Yacht Week.
Despite such local decisions and pronouncements, The Yacht Week returned to Hvar in 2014 on schedule, with an extra boat party before the 5 p.m. party on the waterfront.
Complaints increased, with the residents of Sveti Klement, a small island off Hvar where The Yacht Week boats were moored, complaining that their businesses were being devastated by the effect of the party tourists on the island, and they petitioned the mayor to ban them from Palmizana.



In an interview with this Digital Journalist, The Yacht Week CEO William Wenkel dismissed the petition:
"These petitions represent a small fraction of the society. We do our best to work directly with the communities, but as with any situation, there will always be people that oppose some ideas. If the situation arose where the authorities requested we change or cancel certain elements for the welfare of its residents, of course, we would abide - the welfare and beauty of Croatia is at the heart of our company and our foundation."
The "small fraction of the society" was represented at the latest town council meeting in which the petition, with the resulting unanimous decision of the 13 council members, the elected representatives of the people of Hvar:
"It is recommended that all possible measures should be taken to ban the manifestation called Yacht Week and similar events of the kind from the territory of the municipality of Hvar (not just from the centre of the town), because they lead to constant infringements of legal and moral norms.
"(NB the territory under Hvar Town’s jurisdiction includes the area just past the tunnel to the North, Sveta Nedjelja and the Pakleni islands on the East and West of the island)."
In the open letter, CEO Wenkel was asked whether or not — in the light of the unanimous decision of the elected body of the people of Hvar — he would abide by his interview commitment:
"If the situation arose where the authorities requested we change or cancel certain elements for the welfare of its residents, of course, we would abide."
No answer has so far been forthcoming, and it will be interesting to follow events, for in many ways, this particular issue is one which will define the future of tourism in Hvar Town. If a company which claims to care about Croatia and is respectful of the wishes of local authorities refuses to implement the wishes of its hosts, that is one thing. But if the unanimous decision of the elected council of the people of Hvar cannot be implemented, what does that say about the future of an island, which would then clearly not be in control of its own tourism development agenda?

Read more: digitaljournal.com

Oznake: hvar

Pirates of Omis battle Venice on a spectacular night in Dalmatia

Croatia's varied tourism season continues as pirates take to the high seas to battle Venice in the annual re-enactment in Omis. Central Dalmatia's impressive summer of historical re-enactments continued on August 18, 2014, as the annual pirate battle in Omis packed the small coastal town, and tourists and locals were treated to an impressive - and loud - display of piracy in the harbour of Omis, an event witnessed by Digital Journal.

Piracy was rife throughout the centuries on the Adriatic, no more so than in Omis, whose pirates were able to escape up the Cetina River with all its hiding points to store their loot. This important period of history is marked each year with a reenactment of battle between the Venetians and the pirates from the 13th century. The Venetians refused to pay for safe passage so the Pirates, who were led by the fearless Malduk. They kidnapped Leonarda, the daughter of Aconcius (the Pope's representative). But Leonarda and Malduk's son Ivan fell madly in love, the battle was fought, the pirates won, the Venetians vowed to pay and true love prevailed. As previously reported on Digital Journal, the most famous pirate of them all, Johnny Depp was invited to take part in the battle in previous years.

Perhaps best known for its endless beaches, pristine Adriatic and picturesque islands, Central Dalmatia is a region rich in diverse tourism options, and its centuries of history and tradition, coupled with its remarkable heritage, are brought to life each year through various impressive spectacles. Digital Journal recently attended the Battle of Klis re-enactment, as the Ottoman attack of 1532 was repelled at the impressive Game of Thrones filming location of Klis Fortress; the annual Sinj Alka knights' tournament is one of Croatia's most important cultural events, attended each year by notable dignitaries; and Split's 1,700-year association with the retirement home of Roman Emperor Diocletian is celebrated each August with Days of Diocletian.

Read more: digitaljournal.com

Oznake: omiš

Simply stunning: Such is the pristine nature of Croatia's scenery

First, you are taken out by boat, to a floating platform, where they slice open fresh oysters and mussels, pulled straight from the water. Then you are ferried back to the jetty, where, beneath the dangling nets and ancient brick arches of the Bota Sare restaurant, you are served fish broth and Pošip, a white wine produced from grapes grown on nearby Korcula.

This is one of the 12 little-explored Elaphiti Islands, which, like so many of the spots around Dubrovnik, are both unspoilt and uninhabited (only three of them have a resident population). Somehow, then, this southernmost part of Croatia (it’s a seven-hour drive to the capital, Zagreb) has managed to avoid the excesses of over-development. Maybe the lack of sandy beaches has turned out to be a blessing.

Come nightfall, you can sit out at the Revelin Club cafe, overlooking the harbour, and the sounds coming up from the town are not those of amplified disco, but strains of a distant piano playing in one of the bars. That’s not to say that the 21st century doesn’t get a look in. The best view of the city is from the cable car that takes you from the historic, seven-foot-thick walls right up to the clifftop, where the enemy guns once stood. Recently a new breed of visitor has arrived, not to see the medieval frescos in the monastery, but to visit the locations where blockbuster TV series Game Of Thrones is filmed.

Local guide Lucija Podic not only works on the production, he also makes a living during the summer months, guiding fans around the key locations. The result, then, is a happy marriage of past and present, in a setting where the scars of war are now invisible, and the excesses of commercialism have yet to leave a mark. At least once the cruise ship crowds have left for the day.

Oznake: dubrovnik, elifati, Korčula

Incredibly idyllic: Croatia's Adriatic coastline has some truly splendid places for rest and relaxation

The same sea-views-for-all rule applies, even in the centre of town, to the 91 rooms at the towering, dark-glazed Hotel Bellevue and the 158 rooms at the handsome Hotel Excelsior (which has welcomed all kinds of famous guests over the years, from Sophia Loren to Che Guevara). And while you could happily spend a couple of days at any of these places, sunbathing by their pools, there is plenty more to do.

The most popular tour is to the neighbouring Peljesac Peninsula, an undulating collection of sea-lapped hills, devoted to the cultivation of wine and oysters. A two-hour drive takes you past a dozen little try-and-buy vineyards, of which the biggest by far is the Korta Katarina winery, on the edge of the bay at Orebic. This glorious white structure was built by American philanthropists Penny and Lee Anderson, who decided to put their wealth (they own 44 companies) towards re-constructing post- war Croatia.

Here you can taste their wines, including a very good rosé, which makes use of vast quantities of locally harvested Plavac Mali (meaning ‘little blue’) grapes, which grow all over the surrounding hills. An hour’s drive back towards Dubrovnik, and you’re in salt-flat country. The hills overlooking the little village of Ston are lined with huge walls, designed to repel invaders who came in search of the white gold that was salt, the sole method of food-preservation in a pre-refrigerator world. Half a mile down the road, you’re at the water’s edge, in Mali (Little) Ston.

Oznake: dubrovnik, pelješac