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  • NEMANJA

    Ekskurs o parfemima:
    A za parfeme si u krivu. Veruj mi, nije to stav tek pasioniranog čitatelja Sűskinda niti obožavatelja Ciprine interpretacije fragmenta 'Duše umrlih mirišu u Hadu'; bez obzira na to što se tebi čini da tu postoji odviše kombinacija da bi neka bila prava, upravo je na sreću tako: uvek ima neka točna, sasvim, posve precizna formula(cija)!
    Recimo, danas je jedan od čuvenijih, ako ne i najpoznatiji parfumer svijeta Lorenzo Villoresi, potomak stare toskanske obitelji koja je tijekom stoljeća oplemenjena ugarskim utjecajima ali i savojardima, kao što je primerice Carlo de Loche, kapetan broda dostojan pustolovina Emilia Salgaria, oca Sandokana. Firentinac - zanimljivo, dakle poput Renata Bianca, u povijesnici zabilježenoga kao René le Florentin jer je 1512. pratio Katarinu Medici u Pariz kao njen osobni parfumer, na njenu udaju za Henryja II, donoseći modu finih parfema s talijanskih dvorova u Francusku - Villoresi je doktor filozofije; doktorirao je kod Adorna s temom smrti u helenističkom i drevnom židovskom mišljenju. Taj rafinirani 48. godišnji Maitre Parfumeur, kako bi kazao drugi veliki Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier (ovo nisu slučajne titule) Jean-F. Laporte, ove je godine dobio nagradu Coty kao "the first Italian perfumer to win the Coty Prize, in the heart of the ultimate perfume-making country. He is also the leading independent fragrance creator, which means he does not belong to any international company.The Coty Prize is an international award, now in its seventh year, which celebrates the perfumer of the year. It is a kind of Oscar ceremony for fragrance creators held at the Château d‘Artigny, one of the most beautiful castles in the Loire valley, built in 1912 for François Coty, the famous perfumer of the Belle Epoque."
    Pustimo sada da sam maestro - u moje ime - osobno l-Artisan du Parfum progovori o bespoke fragrances, točnije o nastanku jednog osobnog parfema, kakve svakodnevno spravlja u svom predivnom studiolou u prozračnom potrkovlju Via de' Bardi:
    "It happens sometimes. For example last year I made a personalized fragrance in an unusual way: it was for a lady who was on the phone with me from Argentina, while her husband was in front of me in our studio in Florence. She asked for a violet fragrance and we all know that violet is a classic note, sometimes particularly sweet and powdery, like the Parma violet. But then the lady specified, speaking French, that it shouldn’t be for a woman, but “pour un etre” (“for a being”)…After the phone conversation I made the first violet, a rather classic one, using traditional ingredients with touches of green leaves and powdery notes. But I was not satisfied. So I started again and the second violet was made using the absolute of violet leaves, the absolute of wild violet, some special notes recalling the green undergrowth of the woods were violets thrive and others ingredients used to obtain a less “cosmetic” effect, that is more natural, more herbal-floral-“transparent”, not sweet and powdery, but rather deep floral-green- herbaceous– and not “embellished”, as violets are. The result of this second compound was quite impressive even for us: both violets were sent to the lady but the latter was the chosen one."
    Pour un etre! Genijalno!
    Dragi moj, vidiš kakvi svjetovi postoje između neba i zemlje. Kakvi ljudi.
    Ako želiš, dašak tih svijetova i njihova rafinmana možeš pomirisati i u Zagrebu. Javit ću ti gdje, da ovu finu etidu ne uništim jefitinim marketingom: kad pomirišeš objektivno najsuptilnije parfemske kreacije kao što su Yerbamate ili Teint de Neige, ili pak oporiji, no meni najdraži Vetiver, pomislit ćeš da nisu s ovoga svijeta. Ne možeš vjerovati da ovaj svijet (i) tako miriše!

    avatar

    10.01.2007. (13:01)    -   -   -   -  

  • NEMANJA

    Ekskurs o parfemima:
    A za parfeme si u krivu. Veruj mi, nije to stav tek pasioniranog čitatelja Sűskinda niti obožavatelja Ciprine interpretacije mističnog 98. fragmenta: 'Duše mirišu u Hadu'; bez obzira na to što se tebi čini da tu postoji odviše kombinacija da bi neka bila prava, upravo je na sreću tako: uvek ima neka točna, sasvim, posve precizna formula(cija)!
    Recimo, danas je jedan od čuvenijih, ako ne i najpoznatiji parfumer svijeta Lorenzo Villoresi, potomak stare toskanske obitelji koja je tijekom stoljeća oplemenjena ugarskim utjecajima ali i savojardima, kao što je primerice Carlo de Loche, kapetan broda dostojan pustolovina Emilia Salgaria, oca Sandokana. Firentinac - zanimljivo, dakle poput Renata Bianca, u povijesnici zabilježenoga kao René le Florentin jer je 1512. na njenu udaju za Henryja II pratio Katarinu Medici u Pariz kao njen osobni parfumer, donoseći modu finih parfema s talijanskih dvorova u Francusku - Villoresi je doktor filozofije; doktorirao je kod Adorna s temom smrti u helenističkom i drevnom židovskom mišljenju. Taj rafinirani 48. godišnji Maitre Parfumeur, kako bi kazao drugi veliki Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier (ovo nisu slučajne titule) Jean-F. Laporte, ove je godine dobio nagradu Coty kao "the first Italian perfumer to win the Coty Prize, in the heart of the ultimate perfume-making country. He is also the leading independent fragrance creator, which means he does not belong to any international company.The Coty Prize is an international award, now in its seventh year, which celebrates the perfumer of the year. It is a kind of Oscar ceremony for fragrance creators held at the Château d‘Artigny, one of the most beautiful castles in the Loire valley, built in 1912 for François Coty, the famous perfumer of the Belle Epoque."
    Pustimo sada da sam maestro, l-Artisan du Parfum osobno, u moje ime progovori o bespoke fragrances, točnije o nastanku jednog osobnog parfema, kakve svakodnevno spravlja u svom predivnom studiolou u prozračnom potrkovlju Via de' Bardi:
    "It happens sometimes. For example last year I made a personalized fragrance in an unusual way: it was for a lady who was on the phone with me from Argentina, while her husband was in front of me in our studio in Florence. She asked for a violet fragrance and we all know that violet is a classic note, sometimes particularly sweet and powdery, like the Parma violet. But then the lady specified, speaking French, that it shouldn’t be for a woman, but “pour un etre” (“for a being”)…After the phone conversation I made the first violet, a rather classic one, using traditional ingredients with touches of green leaves and powdery notes. But I was not satisfied. So I started again and the second violet was made using the absolute of violet leaves, the absolute of wild violet, some special notes recalling the green undergrowth of the woods were violets thrive and others ingredients used to obtain a less “cosmetic” effect, that is more natural, more herbal-floral-“transparent”, not sweet and powdery, but rather deep floral-green- herbaceous– and not “embellished”, as violets are. The result of this second compound was quite impressive even for us: both violets were sent to the lady but the latter was the chosen one."
    Pour un etre! Genijalno!
    Dragi moj, vidiš kakvi svjetovi postoje između neba i zemlje. Kakvi ljudi.
    Ako želiš, dašak tih svijetova i njihova rafinmana možeš pomirisati i u Zagrebu. Javit ću ti gdje, da ovu finu etidu ne uništim jefitinim marketingom: kad pomirišeš objektivno najsuptilnije parfemske kreacije kao što su Yerbamate ili Teint de Neige, ili pak oporiji, no meni najdraži Vetiver, pomislit ćeš da nisu s ovoga svijeta. Ne možeš vjerovati da ovaj svijet (i) tako miriše!

    avatar

    10.01.2007. (14:53)    -   -   -   -  

  • NEMANJA

    Psychiatric Hotline
    If you are obsessive-compulsive, please press 1 repeatedly.
    If you are co-dependent, please ask someone to press 2.
    If you have multiple personalities, please press 3, 4, 5, and 6.
    If you are paranoid-delusional, we know who you are and what you want.
    Just stay on the line so we can trace the call.
    If you are schizophrenic, listen carefully and a little voice will tell
    you which number to press.
    If you are manic-depressive, it doesn't matter which number you press. No
    one will answer. Nemanja 02.01.2007. 13:42

    avatar

    10.01.2007. (16:16)    -   -   -   -  

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