THERMAL IMAGING CAMERA BUY - THERMAL IMAGING
Thermal imaging camera buy - Waikiki live beach camera.
Thermal Imaging Camera Buy
- The technique of using the heat given off by an object to produce an image of it or locate it
Infrared thermography, thermal imaging, and thermal video, are examples of infrared imaging science. Thermal imaging cameras detect radiation in the infrared range of the electromagnetic spectrum (roughly 900-14,000 nanometers or 0.
Survey which detects thermal losses through a buildings fabric.
Syn. thermography. Producing an image of an object by means of the infrared radiation emitted by it. A camera tube with a suitable lens system may be used to produce the image.
- A device for recording visual images in the form of photographs, movie film, or video signals
- television camera: television equipment consisting of a lens system that focuses an image on a photosensitive mosaic that is scanned by an electron beam
- A camera is a device that records/stores images. These images may be still photographs or moving images such as videos or movies. The term camera comes from the camera obscura (Latin for "dark chamber"), an early mechanism for projecting images. The modern camera evolved from the camera obscura.
- equipment for taking photographs (usually consisting of a lightproof box with a lens at one end and light-sensitive film at the other)
- Obtain in exchange for payment
- bribe: make illegal payments to in exchange for favors or influence; "This judge can be bought"
- Pay someone to give up an ownership, interest, or share
- Procure the loyalty and support of (someone) by bribery
- bargain: an advantageous purchase; "she got a bargain at the auction"; "the stock was a real buy at that price"
- obtain by purchase; acquire by means of a financial transaction; "The family purchased a new car"; "The conglomerate acquired a new company"; "She buys for the big department store"
G9 ISOcomposite02 H0 & H7 tricks
G9: F2.8 handheld ISO200-1600 from 1s to 1/8s at constant exposure, dcraw-gimp. These are 1/4-crops from each image assembled in a composite, with the whole thing cropped to 3:2 to fit my display. The top two are ISO200 & 400 with H0 in dcraw, the bottom two are ISO800 and ISO1600 with H7 instead of H0 in dcraw. Overall I boosted the contrast slightly.
I thought I'd try it at night with mostly ambient light since that's when camera performance matters most to me. It's easy to get good shots in daylight, the trick is to get good shots in low light like this. I can immediately see that I can get away with shots at ISO800 during the day that won't work at night. There's a huge jump in chroma noise from ISO400 to ISO800, and frankly I saw no obvious need to do anything like boost contrast substantially with the lower two ISOs. At fullscreen they look ok "out of the box". ISO800 obviously needs contrast or something to be acceptable, and ISO1600 is too low in color resolution and dynamic range to be useful at all. The snow in the lower left is entirely gone.
Don't think that H7 just pushed out the shadows, with H0 there was so much noise it was ridiculous. This had to be done, it was either that or use the levels tool to boost the low-level (the "0") enough to get rid of the noise peak and then adjust gamma to compensate without bringing in more chroma-noise. Using H7 instead of H0 effectively did the same thing, it was just easier.
Technically the difference between H7 and H0 in dcraw is that with H0 the color-multipliers can be over 1 and they are adjusted so that a certain percentage of the image is blown-out (I disable this with -W), while with H7 the largest is 1 and the rest are adjusted in combination with the WB, the gamma and the tone-curve to recover blown-highlights as much as possible out of the extra 4-6 bits of DR in a 12-14 bit camera, relative to an 8-bit jpeg. In practice this means that H7 files are somewhere around 1/2 eV lower than H0 files. And dcraw works really well with 14bit raw images. 12 bits of DR is a wonderful thing, really, especially when converting to 24bit RGB.
I think that makes ISO800 somewhat-useful but there isn't much that can be done to save ISO1600 at night. 16dB of SNR in a 12-bit camera, what does that mean, with what, 48dB of SNR at best? 75% of the image dynamic-range is noise? And that's before raw-conversion :)
Basically at ISO1600 the image is about 80% noise unless you cram the raw output up above what, 10 bits out of 12 in each channel? I guess so. More "math" fun. This basically means ISO1600 on the G9 is not good for anything except high-speed shots in moderately-good light. No light in=all noise out. Let this be a general lesson: don't try to use ultra-high ISOs to shoot low exposures in very-low light. You're just going to save a lot of noise to disk. Either lower the ISO or raise the exposure. Either the SNR will go up enough to allow enough of the input signal to pass through uncorrupted, or the median exposure will go up above the noise-floor into whatever dynamic-range remains above the noise. Effectively the same thing either way, just one happens at a lower exposure and the other at a higher exposure.
{In my opinion this is the thing that makes photography very cool: there's a direct link between the eyes and the brain. The conscious mind can spend days, years analyzing things from a fact-based rational point of view, but making the basic assumption that what you see is real, you can just look at a shot and see right away whether it is good or bad, interesting or boring, and almost subconsicously/intuitively get a feeling for it, see how it affects you. Right away, no long-winded "analysis" required...and no nonsense tolerated, either. It's very difficult to fool the eyes. And photography is a very good way to stay in touch with the real world, despite all the bullshit from all the bullshtters around you, who think that they can simply open their mouths and talk the world into being exactly the way that they say that it is. Photography has no tolerance for delusional aggrandized nonsense and that is one reason that I love it...and it's always fun to watch people talk shit while they're holding a picture that refutes everything that they are saying. For me personally it's not having to listen to that nonsense AT ALL, and just being able to focus on the real world, free of human bullshit, in a peaceful relaxing manner. I just want to do a good job of capturing images because then I can enjoy the scenes even more. And then of course there is some science involved which directly correlates to the results. And that's just a bonus.}
So anyway this is what I do: I shoot a lot of low exposures handheld and for me the thing is to have enough SNR to get a good clean exposure without having to shoot so slow that I can't get a steady shot. Also I need enough dynamic-range, linear resolution and color-reso
Forgive me this last rant....
I know I am going to get in trouble for this rant, but bearing in mind that the festive season is fast approaching, indulge me in a little rant cleansing. While all you folks in the south are lounging in the late evening sunlight, sipping your pina coladas and trying to decide if it is golf, lawn bowling or pedicure day tomorrow, us hardy northern folk are being cursed with short days, cold weather, and an inordinate amount of rain. Barring the lack of light, the frigid arctic cold and the onslaught of another downpour, I set off this morning with camera in hand, still trying to fulfill my quest for the ultimate image.
Arriving at the Niagara Parkway, clad in my new camo thermal hip-waders (on special last week at Canadian Tire for $79.95 plus H.S.T - forgive me, H.S.T. stand for “horrendously stupid tax”), but I digress, I hunkered down in the frigid waters of Niagara River determined to up my tally of Bonaparte Gulls from 30,000 to 40,000 images. At the point that I could no longer feel anything from the waist down (I think I should have bought the upgraded thermal hip waders, but they were $139.00), the gulls arrived enforce for their feeding session. At an amazing 11 frames per second (bless that Nikon D3S – Cannon sucks), I whacked off a few hundred images, when to my consternation the gulls booked it for Boonsville. Guess their must have been a Bin Laden sighting since a couple of dickweeds in their border patrol boats (American) ripped by at about 200 knots. Miffed turned to pissed when the boat’s massive 4’ wake swamped my new camo thermal hip-waders (on special last week at Canadian Tire for $79.95).
Since all extremities below the waist were numb anyways, and being of sound northern stock, I bravely chose to await the return of the gulls (those fortunate enough not to have been plastered to front of the rapidly receding border patrol boat). Thirty minutes later, a few brave gulls ventured back to feast on the remains of the minnows, chewed and spewed from the patrol boats propellers. Another rapid burst from my trusty Nikon D3S, a few hard earned images, and the gulls once again performed the Houdini act. This time I could thank the local Niagara chapter of the Tree Huggers Birder Club.
So let me get this straight – 40 miles of Niagara River as their personal playground and they pick my 15 meters of water for their outing. “Scuse me sir, are you taking pictures”??? No dickweed, I’m playing checkers! “Have you seen any gulls”. No dickweed, they booked town when you showed up.
I looked shoreward and observed 15 tree hugging birders with their little bird guides, trusty chewed up pencils, spindly tripods and K Mart special scopes. So indulge me bird people for one moment. When you see a photographer ass deep in frigid waters (should be easy with those birding scopes), find another place to look for your one-legged purple bummed sea gulls. This spot is already taken. Please don’t storm up en-mass, scare my birds off, ask stupid questions, or make judgmental observations about us “stupid photographers”!@!!
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