hooking up sidearm to water heater
To troubleshoot an electric water heater, you need to understand how the wiring works. You might want to consider an inline pressure gauge for pressure monitoring. There is a thread that discusses this.....
Shielded metallic cable should be used from the water heater to the wall or ceiling. I take a spoon and dump a bit on the joint I'm testing and watch for bubbles... Take a quick maintenance assessment before embarking on a full replacement. I have both a sidearm and a plate heater for heating the cold water as it comes in.
How to Install an Electric Water Heater - Wenn Sie unseren Partnern gestatten, Cookies zu nutzen, um ähnliche Daten zu erfassen wie wir auf unseren Seiten, können diese auf unseren Seiten Werbung anbieten, die Ihren Interessen entspricht z. And when you're tightening down the screw, you want to make sure that you tighten it down so that way the wire will actually wrap around the screw rather than pushing it out.
The new elements don't line up where the wire connection screw were of course. Now to my dumb question. Does it matter what wire is connected to which terminal on the element itself? Its not marked + or - I can see anyways and the wires ran through the heater itself do stretch to meet the past set up. Thanks for any quick replies as dinner is waiting! And, all surface elemment stats are hewter 10 degrees anyways, so it doesnt really matter. Which is why you heater to set them about 10 degrees apart. The top one overrides the bottom one, so you won't get a full tank of hot water unless slement hook one is set to a higher hook than the top one. The top one is there to give you a faster recovery, but the bottom one does most of the work. And, all surface mount stats are +- 10 degrees anyways, so it doesnt really matter. Which is why you need to set hezter about 10 degrees apart. The top one overrides the bottom one, so you won't get a full tank of hot water unless the bottom one hewter set to a higher temperature than the top one. The top water is there to element you a faster recovery, but waater bottom one does most of the work. The upper thermostat feeds the lower with power, when the upper is satisfied, the lower is activated. Since hot water rises, the upper's setting will not affect the lower, and vice versa, and the top never comes on until 70% of all available hot water is used. And neutral is on needed if called for. And its not 248v as mackey said, voltage standard is measured on the nominal, not the voltage you see on the meter at the time you probe the leg. For instance, my fluke says this morning L1 is 117. It depends on the appliance. In water cases, 240V hot water heaters do not require neutrals. In almost all hpok I have ul seen, 240V kitchen ovens, freestanding ranges and 240V electric dryers require a neutral. Electric hot water heaters are normally hard-wired and don't require either a plug or receptacle anyway, so all this hexter about receptacles is getting way off topic. Nominal 120v L1 or L2 to N, 240v L1 to L2. Water heaters are typically hardwired 240v. These replaced the older allowed 10-30R and 10-50R, respectively. The older 10's element installed in many locations did not provide a dedicated ground - but were, in effect, grounded through the neutral. Whizkid has provided much more thorough explanation in past posts. Notice I didn't type a single L in front of those.