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Illuminating Fashion: Dress in the Art of Medieval France and the Netherlands, 1325-1515

The first thorough study of the history of dress in the 14th and 15th centuries in Northern Europe based on dated works of art
Invaluable for costume designers, students and scholars of the history of dress and history of art, as well as those who need to date works of art
Features a comprehensive glossary of medieval English and French clothing terms, and extensive lists of dated and datable works of art
Accompanies an Exhibition at The Morgan Library & Museum, New York 20 May- September 4, 2011




A comprehensive study of dress in Northern Europe from the early fourteenth century to the beginning of the Renaissance, this new book is the first thorough study of the history of fashion in this period based solely on firmly dated or datable works of art. It draws on illuminated manuscripts, early printed books, tapestries, paintings, and sculpture from museums and libraries around the world.

Examining the role of social customs and politics in influencing dress, at a time of rapid change in fashion, this fully illustrated volume demonstrates the richness of symbolism in medieval art and how artists used clothing and costume to help viewers interpret an image.

At the heart of the work is A Pictorial History of Fashion, 1325 to 1515, an album of over 300 illustrations with commentary. This is followed by a comprehensive glossary of medieval English and French clothing terms and an extensive list of dated and datable works of art.

German postcard by Kruger, nr. 902/332. Photo: Gerard Decaux.

Blonde French actress France Anglade (1942) was the sweet and sexy star of many European comedies of the 1960’s.

Marie-France Anglade was born in Constantine , France (now Algeria), in 1942. After the war she grew up in Chalons-sur-Marne . In 1958 she passed the holidays with an aunt in Chelles where director Jean Delannoy made the external shots for his film Guinguette (1959) with Zizi Jeanmaire. An assistant noticed her there and France became an extra. Subsequently, she moved to Paris where she posed with Genevieve Grad for fashion photographs and advertisements for Elle magazine. As a result she began a career in theater and film. In 1961 her film career really got on speed with parts in five films. She played the fiancee of Michel Auclair in Le rendez-vous de minuit/Midnight Meeting (1961, Roger Leenhardt) starring Lili Palmer. She had small parts in three portmanteau (anthology) films Amours celebres/Famous Love Affairs (1961, Michel Boisrond) with Brigitte Bardot and Alain Delon, Les parisiennes/Tales of Paris (1962, Marc Allegret) starring Catherine Deneuve, and Les sept peches capitaux/The Seven Deadly Sins (1962, Edouard Molinaro) with Dany Saval. The following year she continued to play small parts in such French films as the erotic Douce Violence/Sweet Ecstasy (1961, Max Pecas) with Elke Sommer and Pierre Brice, Comme un poisson dans l'eau/Like a Fish in Water (1962, Andre Michel) starring Michel Piccoli, and La denunciation/The Immoral Moment (1962, Jacques Doniol-Valcroze) with Maurice Ronet.

France Anglade had her first leading role in the TV comedy Le monsieur de 5 heures/ (1962, Andre Pergament). She also appeared in small roles in such prestigious productions as the Oscar winner Les dimanches de Ville d'Avray/Sundays and Cybele (1962, Serge Bourguignon) with Hardy Kruger as a man suffering from a war trauma and amnesia who befriends a lonely little girl. She found her niche in comedies. She played the title role in the comedy Clementine cherie (1963, Pierre Chevalier) . Soon followed parts in other comedies like Les bricoleurs/Who Stole the Body? (1963, Jean Girault) with Darry Cowl, Du mouron pour les petits oiseaux/Chicken Feed for Little Birds (1963, Marcel Carne) with Dany Saval, and Les veinards/People in Luck (1963, Jean Girault) opposite Jean Lefebvre. She also appeared in Italian comedies, including Le motorizzate/The Motorised (1963, Marino Girolami) with Toto, and Canzoni bulli e pupe (1964, Carlo Infascelli) with the Italian comic duo Franco Franchi and Ciccio Ingrassia. In Germany she appeared in the Krimi spoof Maskenball bei Scotland Yard/Masked Ball at Scotland Yard (1963, Domenico Paolella) starring Bill Ramsey. These were often European coproductions with several countries involved. She had grown into leading roles and starred in the romantic comedy Comment trouvez-vous ma soeur?/How Do You Like My Sister? (1964, Michel Boisrond). In addition to her comedies she played some dramatic roles as in the war drama Le repas des fauves Champagne for Savages (1964, Christian-Jaque) with Antonella Lualdi.

In Italy she appeared in the spy spoof James Tont operazione D.U.E./The Wacky World of James Tont (1965, Bruno Corbucci). After the success of the James Bond films, the Italians were among the first to jump on the Secret Agent bandwagon. They were also at the fore when it came to parody them. Two James Tont adventures, in fact, emerged during 1965 (‘Tonto’ is Italian for ‘Dope’ (stupid)) featuring Sicilian comic Lando Buzzanca. He drives in a little Fiat which can double as a submarine. This film is the second entry – ‘D.U.E’. means ‘Two’, though the initials themselves stand for ‘Destruction Urbi Eterna’. This is a reference to the Vatican, whose invaluable wealth the chief villain plans on stealing via an improbably elaborate plan which would even see the cupola of St. Peter’s flying into space! She then appeared in the British, Beirut-set thriller Twenty-Four Hours to Kill (1965, Peter Bezencenet) starring Lex Barker and Mickey Rooney. In 1968 Life magazine placed a photo of her and a big gun in the magazine. She had auditioned for the new James Bond opus, On Her Majesty's Secret Service (1969, Peter R. Hunt), but she never became a Bond girl. In the second half of the 1960’s France Anglade only appeared in two films. She was one of the many beautiful European actresses who appeared in a sketch of the anthology film Le plus vieux metier du monde/The Oldest Profession (1967, Claude Autant-Lara) about the history of prostitution through the ages, and she played the title role in the remake Caroline cherie/Dear Caroline (1968, Denys de La Patelliere). In the following decades she sometimes appeared on French TV, and for long intervals she seemed to be retired. She returned to the cinema in a supporting part in Madame Claude 2/Intimate Moments (1981, Francois Mimet) starring Alexandra

The Russian Orthodox Cathedral, Nice (Cathedrale Orthodoxe Russe Saint-Nicolas de Nice) is a Russian Orthodox cathedral, and a national monument of France, located in the city of Nice. Opened in 1912, thanks to the generosity of Tsar Nicholas II, it is the largest Russian Orthodox cathedral outside Russia. There is currently an ownership dispute over the property. The parish, which belongs to an overseas Russian Orthodox jurisdiction under the authority of the Ecumenical Patriarchate, opposes a claim on the property by the Patriarchate of Moscow, which has the backing of the Russian government(citation needed). The dispute seemingly stems from a conflict between old Russian nobility who have long since settled in Nice and newly arrived Russians. A subjective account of the dispute, favoring the current administration, can be read in the following text translated from the French, which formed the bulk of this entry prior to edit:

From a religious point of view, this claim is considered by the local noble Russian community as unlawful, since the cathedral belongs to the Orthodox Church of Constantinople and therefore has nothing to do with the Church of Moscow. They also underline that a religious matter should not be dealt with by the Russian state. What is more, this claim from Russian authorities is also linked to the arrival of newly emigrated wealthy Russians, who belong to the business Russian classes or even to the mafia. The old noble Russians who have lived in Nice for decades are unwilling to see they cathedral under the authority of a corrupt government and "invaded" by Russians whose wealth is openly known to be from illegal activities. They also noticed that the behavior of these newcomers is far from what it should be from truly religious people: indecent clothes in a very religious building, a clear tendency to show off how rich they are, a mere respct of religious dogma but no real Christian values underneath. There has also been a recent case of false accusation against the previous archbishop of the cathedral, led by newly come Russians."

Since the mid-19th century, Russian nobility visited Nice and the French Riviera, following the fashion established decades earlier by the English upper class and nobility. In 1864, immediately after the railway reached Nice, Tsar Alexander II visited by train and was attracted by the pleasant climate. Thus began an association between Russians and the French Riviera that continues to this day. The Cathedral was established to serve the large Russian community that had settled in Nice by the end of the 19th century, as well as devote visitors from the Imperial Court. Tsar Nicholas II funded the construction of the Cathedral, which was inaugurated in December 1912.

Nice (IPA: [nis]; Nicard Occitan: Nica [classical norm] or Nissa [nonstandard], Italian: Nizza or Nizza Marittima, Greek: ??????, Latin: Nicaea) is a city in southern France located on the Mediterranean coast, between Marseille, France, and Genoa, Italy, with 1,197,751 inhabitants in the 2007 estimate. The city is a major tourist centre and a leading resort on the French Riviera (Cote d'Azur). It is the historical capital city of the County of Nice (Comte de Nice).

The first known human settlements in the Nice area date back approximately 400,000 years;[1] the Terra Amata archeological site shows one of the earliest uses of fire and construction of houses and flint findings are dated as around 230,000 years old.[2] Nice (Nicaea) was probably founded around 350 BC by the Greeks of Massilia (Marseille), and was given the name of ?????? ("Nikaia") in honour of a victory over the neighbouring Ligurians (Nike is the Greek goddess of victory). The city soon became one of the busiest trading ports on the Ligurian coast; but it had an important rival in the Roman town of Cemenelum, which continued to exist as a separate city until the time of the Lombard invasions. The ruins of Cemenelum are located in Cimiez, which is now a district in Nice.

In the 7th century, Nice joined the Genoese League formed by the towns of Liguria. In 729 the city repulsed the Saracens; but in 859 and again in 880 the Saracens pillaged and burned it, and for most of the 10th century remained masters of the surrounding country.

During the Middle Ages, Nice participated in the wars and history of Italy. As an ally of Pisa it was the enemy of Genoa, and both the King of France and the Emperor endeavoured to subjugate it; but in spite of this it maintained its municipal liberties. During the course of the 13th and 14th centuries the city fell more than once into the hands of the Counts of Provence; and at length in 1388 the commune placed itself under the protection of the Counts of Savoy. Nice (called Nizza in Italian) participated - directly or indirectly - in the history of Savoy up until 1860.

The maritime strength of Nice now rapidly increased until it was able to cope with the Barbary pirates

Though times have changed, the charm and grace of Southern style endures. It’s a design tradition that values gentility and gracious living above conspicuous consumption; history and mystery above the cutting edge; and hospitality above all else. Today’s Southern homes reflect a sense of style that remains in touch with the past as it embraces the present.
In this affectionate portrait of Southern homes, Frances Schultz and Paula S. Wallace lead a tour of more than twenty of the South’s proudest houses and most remarkable modern domiciles, proving that the legendary graciousness of the Southern home lives on in all forms–from seaside cottages to some truly over-the-top domains. Despite the differences among these diverse homes, the most timeless aspects of Southern style abound, including:
• Using wrought iron for decorative elements
both inside and outside the home
•Incorporating the porch as an essential room
of the house
• Collecting antique silver to complement the
contemporary table

Magnificent full-color photographs of each house show everything from the grand and elegant to the quaint and quirky, making this unique book a visual treat for anyone enchanted by the eternal grace of the American South.