ANCIENT INDIAN COOKING

This dinner-party-ready meal from New York City chef Colombe Jacobsen is made en papillote (the French technique of cooking in parchment paper), which allows the fish to marinate in the tangy seasonings as it cooks. If your market doesn't stock black rice, plain white or brown rice also work well.
Photo by Francesco Lagnese January 2009
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No messy pans: You can serve this dish right in its packet! (And the parchment keeps fishy odors from permeating your house.)

Serves 6
The Ingredients

* 2 cups black rice
* 1 roll parchment paper
* 1 banana leaf
* 4 tsp. sesame oil
* 3 stalks lemongrass
* 6 tbsp. cilantro
* 6 tbsp. mint
* 6 tbsp. basil
* 2 red Thai chilies
* 4 cloves garlic
* fresh ginger
* 6 striped bass filets
* 1 ? cups light coconut milk
* 3 tbsp. lime juice
* zest of 2 limes

Preheat oven to 375°F. Cook rice according to package instructions; set aside. Cut parchment paper into six 24"-long sheets. Create six heart shapes by folding each sheet in half (so it is 12" long), then cutting a half-heart shape, keeping the fold intact. Rub banana leaf with 1 teaspoon oil, then cut into six rectangles, each about 4" x 6."

Remove outer layer of lemongrass; cut stalks into 2" pieces. Chop cilantro, mint and basil. Thinly slice chilies. Grate garlic and ginger, then rub each filet with ? teaspoon garlic and ? tablespoon ginger.

Assemble each packet: Set out one parchment heart, then place a banana-leaf rectangle on right half. Place ? cup cooked rice, two pieces of lemongrass and one filet on half of banana leaf. Drizzle with ? cup coconut milk, ? teaspoon sesame oil and ? tablespoon lime juice. Add 3 slices red chili and ? teaspoon zest. Top with 1 tablespoon each cilantro, mint and basil, plus two more pieces of lemongrass, then fold leaf over so it covers fish.

Seal packet by making small folds all around the cut edge, then place on baking sheet. Repeat process with remaining filets. Bake in oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until parchment has bubbled and browned.

I have to say, if there's one thing I'm pretty sure I can do, it's steam a fish en papillote. You just wrap it in a parchment paper or foil pouch and leave it in a 400 degree oven for 25 minute or so. And then it tastes really good. Mmm.

This was harder than when I did it last time because I HAD TO DRESS A WHOLE FISH. Dude, pulling out fish guts isn't fun. Also, holding a whole fish feels exactly how you think it would: a wet, fleshy dead thing.