AIR FURNACE FILTER

RainbowImaging 49mm Adjustable Fader ND Filter Neutral Density (ND2 - ND400) Multi-Coated Japan

Neutral Density (ND) filters can reduce the intensity of light without appreciably changing its color. Classic ND filters have different f-stop reduction numbers and transmittance thus generated can be applied for different shooting conditions, such as portraiture, water falls, etc. This innovative item brings great innovation of the filter industry. Through the polarization angle modulation (rotate the filter ring when operating), this lens can change the luminous flux substantially with freedom, reducing the ND number from 2 to 400! It can easily replace dozens of all grade of density ND gray filters The filter is made of two pieces of high polarizer (HPL) which has above 99.7 polarization and a precision rotary of the wide-angle lens ring. Please note the glass of this filter is made in Japan, and it is multi-coated. (a single coated will sell at better price)..

I finally decided that I would post a fireworks shot, even though I'm still not completely content with how the processing turned out. I feel like there is something that I'm just not quite getting right with my editing, so any fireworks processing tips would be appreciated! Unfortunately Google searches only bring up information about using the program Fireworks, so that helps very little.

I was particularly interested in getting back to Disney and shooting the fireworks now that I had picked up an ND filter to help with reducing highlights and getting longer exposures. I decided on a Fader ND filter since I couldn't decide how many stops I wanted. I must say, it has worked great so far and I highly recommend it for anyone interested in quick and easy adjustments. I particularly liked it for something like Wishes where I could adjust the amount of light accordingly depending on if I wanted 30 second of fireworks or 70 seconds of fireworks with a simple turn of the filter. Although I'm not sure that I took the greatest shots, as there is a lot of very deep blacks, I do like the number of bursts that I picked up.

Thanks for looking and suggestions are welcome! Hopefully I can refine my fireworks processing a little bit more for next week.

My problem in using the excellent Lomo 35mm T1.4 (OKC12-35-1) is that its rear mount is too short that I could not focus to infinity - only focuses to very close objects.

So, I had to remove the lens' aperture pin so that I could screw the lens block deeper to achieve infinity focus. But doing that meant I could not change the aperture. It is permanently wide open.

Because there are no filter threads on the lens, I figured out a way by using my custom made lens clamps intended for anamorphic projection lenses. The lens clamp had 77mm filter threads on the front. So, I clamped it onto the lens and use LCW's ND Fader. Therefore I can now artificially stop down as well as take advantage of having ND filter!