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Hoya 77mm Circular Polarizing PL-CIR HMC Multi-Coated Filter

Dollar for dollar, there is no other accessory that can make as noticeable an improvement in the way your outdoor photographs look as a Polarizing Filter offers you. Light rays which are reflected by any surface become polarized and Polarizing Filters are used to select which light rays enter your camera lens rather than allowing all the scattered multi-directional light waves to enter simultaneously which degrades picture quality. Both the older style PL (Linear Polarizing) and the more modern PL-CIR (Circular Polarizing) filters provide the same photgraphic effect, but it is important to use the correct version for your camera. Many of today's cameras use semi-silvered mirrors or prisms to split the light entering the viewfinder in order to calculate exposure and focusing distance. Older style PL (Linear Polarizing) filters can sometimes interact with these items to give unpredictable exposure or focusing. So it is recommended that you choose a PL-CIR (Circular Polarizing) filter which will work on both the most modern digital cameras as well as the older manual focus film cameras. They allow you to remove unwanted reflections from non-metallic surfaces such as water, wood, grass, leaves, snow, glass, etc. They also enable colors to become more saturated and appear clearer, with better contrast. This effect is often used to increase the contrast and saturation in blue skies and white clouds for incredibly vivid yet natural looking scenic photographs. In addition, HOYA's Polarizing Filters do not adversely affect the overall color balance of the photograph. Hoya Multi-coated HMC filters are renowned for their ability to minimize reflection at the filter surfaces which reduces flare and ghosting to enhance the performance of today's multi-cpated lenses. The result is an average light transmission of over 97%, giving sharp contrast and well balanced color.

A new infrared experiment at the bridge of Emmerich in Germany. Noise control and sharpness keeps on tending to be a big problem: maybe I should start shooting in RAW......maybe I should have used Iso 100...........maybe the wind was a bit too much for my tripod........ahh guess I need to do some more experimenting.... ;-)

Update 1: someone mailed me that noise and sharpness are big problems with IR filters and that for serious IR photography a converted (old) camera should be used. I have the feeling he's right!
Any input to this statement is welcome...... ;-)

Update 2: B/W conversion in photoshop should not be performed with "adjustments black an white" but with "adjustments hue/saturation"......the results will be much sharper en less noisey........ ;-)

Update 3: Covering the viewfinder is needed to stop light from entering through it and produce unwanted reflections inside the camera and lense.......;-)

Update 4: On some lenses you might even have to cover the distance scale....the Nikon 24 - 70 mm f 2.8 seems to have a notorious reputation on this subject

Update 5: Don't forget to remove the UV-filter before attaching the IR filter.....;-)

We had modified an Xbox Live camera by removing the IR filter, and adding in a visible light filter (2 layers of processed negative film, the blackest part).