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One camera, many miles. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~NOW CLOSED~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The same viewfinder, but different views. We (me and Hannah, tagged over on the side) are starting a project. We are going to send a disposable camera all over the world. The idea is to capture the lives of others and bring them together through photography. We are only starting with one, but if this takes off and if people really love the idea, then we can expand the project and really make it into something. The rules are: -We are going to send out one disposable camera, with 27 exposures. -We will send it to nine people, who each get to take three photos. If you take more, then other people won’t get to take any! So please, only three. -These people will be picked randomly. -If you want to enter (no skill level is required, only a love of photography), just put your first and last name in the comments of this photo. -On Friday, April 1st, we will pick and notify everyone. -You can enter no matter where you live! We will send the camera in a box, along with a mailing list, so everyone knows where to send it next. You will need to pay for shipping, so don’t enter if you don’t want to pay. You can put anything you want in the box with the camera, whether it be prints, or writing, or drawings, bracelets, etc. Just remember, the heavier the box, the more shipping will be. When the camera is done, it will be sent back to us, and we’ll develop it. We’ll create a website where you can see all the photos, and we will try to scan in anything else that gets put in the box. Please enter, and have fun! This has the potential to be a really beautiful and unique project, and we’re really excited to see the world through everyone else’s eyes. --Elizabeth and Hannah. --- One off camera flash portrait See also: best compact camera travel lumix camera commercial free web camera chatting sanyo digital camera xacti cheap nikon d60 camera anyka usb web camera driver best cheapest slr camera ir camera hack |
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Honey Bee macro taken with a Samsung L210 mini-compact pocket camera SDC11532 Best view on black, Large (1024 x 768) and Original (2365 x 1793) size format. Taken in Northern Illinois with a hand held macro taken with a Samsung L210 mini-compact pocket camera. Honey Bee Queen? Confirmation. Small Dragonfly macro taken with a Samsung L210 mini-compact pocket camera SDC10507 Best view on black and Large (1024 x 768) size format. Hand held macro taken with a Samsung L210 mini-compact pocket camera. See also: jvc 3d camera digital camera sales figures official canon camera website video camera price comparison used camera values underwater video camera rental of speed camera locations gator reversing camera digital waterproof camera mini hidden camera |
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Canon FL 200/4.5 Cheap but sharp, like most camera manufacturer's slow telephotos. But only convenient to use with FT and similar and F bodies, and these days a complete orphan, like all manual Canon SLR lenses (as they cannot be used on modern cameras without the degradation of an optical adapter). New camera My new camera finally arrived (: I actually wanted an xsi, but it was out of stock. I thought better and felt that i wouldnt mind losing the spot metering and 3" lcd, since i bought a 50mm lens with the difference money. See also: internet ip camera chicony web camera driver spy camera cell phone canon waterproof camera usb pc camera dc 6120 driver camera phone images camera assistant software for toshiba download video camera rental nyc |
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College Park Trails [Fuji ISO200 > Minolta 500si Minolta 35-70 > CVS processing > Epson V300 scanner 4800dpi cae dg 1.8 ael -3 > Lightroom] This is a nice little result that was easy to generate in LR. So after a couple of days of playing with it, "off and on": Pros: Much easier to do crops, rotates, fill-light, the "basic" adjustments, the auto wb is rational, all the lens-corrections are right there and user-modifiable, it has decent vignetting which is good, CA, etc, I don't need lens-corrections at this point, but it's good to know that it's there, and that it is easy to disable entire sections by flipping the switches. Unlike the French and their problems with presentation, this is straightforward, and that is good: "one less problem". It saves to jpeg with a certain Q value below a given filesize, though beyond the Q value it doesn't tell me what the compression-scheme actually is in detail like Gimp does, But neither do most programs that save to jpeg. 90% of Lightroom is great. Cons: It still has that same stupid process that DxO uses where if you point it to a directory of images of any real size it just falls down and dies. In fact DxO is better in that regard, though I've yet to try it with a directory full of 80MP scans. It's just not designed to handle a lot of image-data especially on a computer with limited resources. Gimp *is*. Also the sharpening routine both sucks and simply can't handle high-resolution images. The radius tool stops at 3...I need at least 5 for a 24MP film scan. My scanner can easily generate 9600dpi scans, that would be over 120MP...a radius of 3 wouldn't even make a dent in their sharpening-needs. The smart-sharpening, eh, it's better than nothing, but not good and I can't really get it to do what I want, there's virtually no control over it, certainly Gimp is far better in this regard. Again, LR is designed for the level of detail that you get out of a digital camera. It simply does not work well for high-resolution film scans. And I just pointed it to the folder of scans that I have on my laptop not my external hard drive, maybe 50 tiff files in the 35-100MB range. And when I tried to import them it just went "shannanannannana....." and died. Twice. Sure, my laptop has 1.5GB of ram and LR used 900k of that just editing an image. But Gimp handles that just fine. There is simply no need for it to scan through all those files and create thumbnails of them when I have already done that in Explorer. All I need it to do is open and edit one file. You could perhaps do that in the quick-edit, but in the quick-edit you don't see the details for the settings. All you get are the arrow controls. And certainly you can rotate and crop the image there. So I think that it's good for a first-pass, for a single image import, doing what it does well (and it does *very* well) but then I'd have to go back into Gimp to finish it up and then I'm paying $250 for a tool to do 80% of the work and still using a free tool to do the rest of the work. Or I don't sharpen the image at any more than Lightroom will. That still leaves the clone-work. Guess which tool has better clone-tools. I suppose that in a few more days of playing with it I may very well resolve these issues but right now, LR is looking like 3/4ths of the solution and 1/2 of the problem. However, at this point I would use LR for one thing and one thing only: the fill-light tool, and maybe the auto-wb tool for when things are really bad, because it doesn't push the exposure as much as the AutoWB tool does in Gimp. Everything else I can do fine in Gimp. If Gimp had a decent fill-light tool I would not use LR except maybe for extreme lens-corrections. Though I can see how it works fine for a bunch of 2-10MB images from your average 6-14MP digital camera. LR is great if you are posting small shots for the web. I wouldn't want to rely on it for large prints. Likewise, digital cameras are great if all you're doing is generating a bunch of 1MP images for web use or for small prints. But let me ask you a question: what sense would it make to spend $1500+ on camera gear to make a bunch of 1MP images, that are way too big even for the average cell-phone or pda, at a quarter-VGA? The irony is that most cameras produce far more pixels than required for the overwhelming percentage of viewing-conditions, and I say this yet again: what we really need is cheaper gear, more speed and less noise with the same level of fine-detail, not more pixels. All while I'm sitting here scanning 35mm film to 4800dpi and thinking that I should scan higher, The point is that with film the difference between 300dpi, 2400dpi, 4800dpi, 9600dpi etc is relatively insignificant. The files are larger, that's the main concern. Aside from the implications of file-size it still takes the same time to scan and edit the images. So it doesn't really *matter* to me that I scan at 4800dpi vs 9600dpi vs 300dpi, except HELP - I lost my pics today because of RAW pb on my memory stick pro *SONY turn into a RAW format Hello my Friend... Sorry for this big effect... I just really nead your help Today I was making a lot of Photography... suddenly my screem become blanc and White and change colors... I turn off, and turn on... I made a new pics and the camera told me my memory stick pro sony was full (memory stick pro Sony 512 mo)... I change Memory stick... no more pb... But at home... 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Rincon For Christmas, Santa and his elf Carlos got me a bunch of 35mm film. Even though I have 3987 cameras, none of the film ones take 35 mm. (Though Carlos does have a Canon AE-1 that I am going to try some of the film in someday soon!) But Santa and Elf Carlos were thoughtful and tried hard. I found a way to modify my Holga to take the 120 film, requiring just $1.25 in quarters for shims, a bit of paper towel, some tape to hold the film in, electrical tape to black out the film window, and a handy dandy chart that I taped to the back of the Holga to indicate how many clicks/turns to advance after each photo. I was very excited to try this and took several rolls with me to Puerto Rico. I ended up shooting one roll while I was there (17 exposures in the Holga on a 24 exposure 35 mm roll). I had all the film in my carry on bag (one already loaded in the Holga on departure). When we went through security in Boston I made sure to specify that I had unexposed film with me and they said as long as it was under 800 speed (it's 400), it would be fine, exposed or not. I've not traveled with film before but I trusted the TSA Men With Wires In Their Ears. While in PR I frequently had both the Holga and digital with me and took shots with both. When I got home I sent the roll of 35 mm off to be processed. I asked that they send me the negatives only and please either hand-cut or not cut the negatives at all since they were from my Holga. When I got my negatives back in the mail, my first look at them made me think that there was nothing on them at all. After several looks I could see very, very faint pictures in some frames. There was a green (red when scanned) line across about 3/4 of the film. Out of the 17 pictures I took, these 5 that I uploaded are the only ones that are recognizable in any way. There are some that I scanned and was like, "WTF is that? Where was that???" Most of the shots show signs of damage by xray or whatever. When you leave PR there is a USDA scanner that you have to put all your bags through and that uses CT scan technology. Besides the carryon scan, that's the only place my film passed through. I forgot to take it out there and I think that's where it got ruined. I was so sad when I saw what the pictures were (or weren't) but what can you do. Live and learn? I'm not a huge fan of these images but some of them have this weird ghostly quality to them that is kind of cool to me. You can't see the 35 mm sprocket holes on them...I guess you probably could if I had scanned them in the 120 film holder thing rather than 35 mm? This picture is my favorite of the damaged film bunch. It reminds me of one of those old postcards from Hawaii. I *think* this is at Pools, which means that land mass that juts out in the background is kind of the last point before Rincon turns over towards the Caribbean. I remember looking at the Spanish Wall and I was going to try to walk along the path from Pools' to Domes but the swell was too big and the tide was wicked high. ZI Bobette II: front I decided to upload some better pictures of my Bobette II. This is one of the Ernemann cameras continued in production after the merger that created Zeiss Ikon in 1926. It was ZI model 548. Branded as a Zeiss camera, this one must be from 1926 or later. This is the front. The lens on my camera is an Ernemann 'Ernon' anastigmat, a 5 cm f/3.5 triplet lens - uncoated of course. It has an everset shutter, giving speeds from 1/5 - 1/100 sec plus B and T. There's no delayed action, but it does have a socket for a cable release. The aperture scale was missing when I got the camera. I made one by measuring the real iris aperture diameter (with the front of the lens out). This works fine at the wide end; but it can't be accurate at the stopped-down end; my scale easily has room for f/45. I think this is because the aperture should be calculated from the diameter as magnified by the front lens elements. Some time I may get round to a second attempt; in the meantime, British daylight rarely requires stopping down a lot! For such a small camera, a folding bed with focusing rails and a sliding lens standard seems almost over-engineered. You can see the radial focusing lever on the side of the bed. The pretty table stand has to be unfolded to open or close the front of the camera. The focus must also be set to infinity to close it. You can see how a previous owner went to some trouble to modify the camera. A brass loop and hook-shaped part have been brazed onto the fixed rail on the other side. These could hold a rod, perhaps to mount a home-made wire frame finder. See also: free download enet pc camera driver camera bags review full hd digital camera diana camera accessories camera shops in louisville polaroid camera instant camera ip web camera software canon camera battery problem pinhole camera pics |
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