BATHROOM FLOOR INSTALLATION
EPOXY RESIN FLOOR PAINT : EPOXY RESIN
Epoxy Resin Floor Paint : Timber Laminate Flooring
Epoxy Resin Floor Paint
AeroMarine 300/21 Epoxy Resin 1.5 Quart Kit
Clear Epoxy Resin. Total yield of 1 1/2 Quart. Consists of 1 quart of #300 resin and 1 pint of #21 Non Blushing Cycloaliphatic Hardener. Dries clear. Our best and most popular clear epoxy resin. It is ideal for most functions: Boat and aircraft building, poured countertops and general fiberglass and carbon fiber laminating. Great for building a 'Stitch and Glue' boat, Cedar strip kayak or canoe as well as for cold molded wood boat or fiberglass boats. This multifunctional epoxy is also used for pebble paving, pebble resurfacing, pebble repair, and pebble or stone decking. And automotive enthusiasts use it for laminating carbon fiber parts including hoods, dashes, etc. The 1.5, 3 and 6 gallon kits are available with handy metering pumps. It is also an excellent choice for poured epoxy countertops, bar tops and table tops; and even making Jewelry. The mix ratio is a simple 2:1 by either weight or volume. AeroMarine 300/21 is a thin, clear liquid. It has a working life of about 30 minutes, and sets hard in a few hours. Work life: 30 minutes@70F. Cure time: 24 hours@70F.
One way (and perhaps the smart way) to laminate Xynole to the hull:
Day 1- laminate the topsides. Day 2- unroll the Xynole onto the bottom panels and laminate them.
Always the adventurer, I decided to cover the entire hull with Xynole and do the entire lamination in one day though working alone. One advantage of doing it all together is a good chemical bond on the bottom and topside seams.
The 60 degree temps made it possible for me to not use the Raka epoxy hand pumps and instead use three large plastic cups to measure out the epoxy. I filled two cups with resin and one with slow hardener. This method worked error free for me as I required three cups filled and staring at me before I added the hardner and resin together. For each batch, I carefully scrapped out the resin/hardner from the measuring cups to keep the mixture portions correct. All applied epoxy kicked off normally on the hull so my method worked well.
I ended up with epoxy batches probably around 3/4 quart. I mixed each batch about three minutes and either immediately dumped it onto the bottom panels or in a paint roller tray. My first epoxy pour was started midship on a bottom panel and I worked towards the stem pushing out winkles and using the squeegee to spread the epoxy to prevent excess in a particular area.. Yup, you use a lot of epoxy. I then returned midship and worked towards the stern. I used a roller on the topsides to apply the epoxy and then the squeegee to work out excess.
Working alone this was a 9 hour job to complete all Xynole installation. I ran out of epoxy on the first day and had a small area to finish when my epoxy was replenished. My approach of mixing large epoxy quanities was only possible because of the 60 degree temps.
This picture depicts rolling back the bottom panel fabric edge in preparation for applying epoxy to the edge of the topside panel to wet tab the topside panel in place . Next, the blue masking tape was removed. Then I pulled the bottom panel Xynole back over the topside panel fabric and went to town on spreading the epoxy.
For the topside/bottom panel Xynole seam in the area of the chine flats, I put this seam in the valley formed by the chine flat and the bottom panel which made fairing of the seam easier .
I didn't accurately keep track of the amount of epoxy I used. I guess 5-6 gallons. This includes the epoxy that glued my elbows and knees to my clothes. I also got a head start on coating my concrete floor with an epoxy based material.
After the Xynole installation was complete and epoxy sufficiently hardened, I used a wide and very sharp wood chiesel to fair the topside/bottom seams.
I believe that the lamination of the bottom/topside seam with both edges wet results in a thinner seam as the material can be compacted together versus later laying bottom fabric onto cured topside fabric.
Clad in marine ply, and then painted with a marine grade epoxy resin/varnish, the bathroom is finally beginning to take shape. A minor problem with the shower head to be resolved, a glass panel, and then a clean, and it should all be good.
The mat on the floor is made from cedar. It'll get a coat of varnish, and then that's what we'll stand on when we shower.
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