FRENCH COUNTRY COOKING ELIZABETH DAVID. COOKING ELIZABE
FRENCH COUNTRY COOKING ELIZABETH DAVID. COOKING UNIVERSITY.
French Country Cooking Elizabeth David
spiced beef, day 3, fresh application of spice rub
One of the many gifts bestowed on me by one of my favorite authors, the late and much-missed Laurie Colwin, was a recipe for spiced beef, which she found in Elizabeth David's wonderful book Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen, and which was reprinted in her last published book, More Home Cooking. I first made it for Christmas Eve dinner in 1995. My grandfather told my mother it was the best beef he had ever eaten, and so it was that I made it for Christmas every year, except for 2003, when my grandfather passed away and we just couldn't bear to have it without him. The next year, it was back, partly because we missed it, but also because we knew that Grandpop would kick our asses if we stopped making spiced beef just because he wasn't here to share it with us.
Spiced beef is cured with a dry rub of salt, sugar, black pepper, allspice and juniper berries for two weeks before cooking; it is then slow-roasted, left to cool, wrapped in wax paper, packed between two planks, weighted down and refrigerated overnight. This enables you to slice it paper-thin the next day, which is the best way to serve it. It is intensely spiced, complex, mouthfilling and moreish. *Now* it feels like Christmas.
Penguin Handbooks 14 046100 0
Summer Cooking by Elizabeth David
First published by Museum Press 1955
This revised and enlarged edition published in Penguin Handbooks 1965
Reprinted 1966, 1967, 1969, 1970, 1971
Cover photograph by Anthony Denney
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