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DISPOSABLE MAKE UP BRUSHES - WHERE TO BUY MINERAL MAKEUP - HOW TO APPLY MAKEUP LIKE A MODEL
Disposable Make Up Brushes
- an item that can be disposed of after it has been used
An article designed to be thrown away after use
free or available for use or disposition; "every disposable piece of equipment was sent to the fire"; "disposable assets"
A disposable (also called disposable product) is a product designed for cheapness and short-term convenience rather than medium to long-term durability, with most products only intended for single use. The term is also sometimes used for products that may last several months (ex.
- constitution: the way in which someone or something is composed
- Cosmetics such as lipstick or powder applied to the face, used to enhance or alter the appearance
- The composition or constitution of something
- The combination of qualities that form a person's temperament
- constitute: form or compose; "This money is my only income"; "The stone wall was the backdrop for the performance"; "These constitute my entire belonging"; "The children made up the chorus"; "This sum represents my entire income for a year"; "These few men comprise his entire army"
- makeup: an event that is substituted for a previously cancelled event; "he missed the test and had to take a makeup"; "the two teams played a makeup one week later"
- An act of sweeping, applying, or arranging with such an implement or with one's hand
- (brush) an implement that has hairs or bristles firmly set into a handle
- (brush) a dense growth of bushes
- (brush) rub with a brush, or as if with a brush; "Johnson brushed the hairs from his jacket"
- An implement with a handle, consisting of bristles, hair, or wire set into a block, used for cleaning or scrubbing, applying a liquid or powder to a surface, arranging the hair, or other purposes
- A thin stick set with long wire bristles, used to make a soft hissing sound on drums or cymbals
Disposable Makeup Accessory Kit
Disposable makeup accessory kit has one of each: mascara brush, synthetic lip brush, double tip eye shadow sponge-tip applicator, mini wooden spatula and latex-free oblong makeup sponge in a plastic zip lock bag.
The kit is perfect to take with you when you're on the go, travelling or experimenting with different cosmetics, it's sanitary and simple to toss out after each use.
The kit comes to us from our distributor in the ziplock bag, we do not assemble or touch the contents of the kit ourselves.
Rip, Rip, Birdsmouth Spar
Sort out the Material
Yesterday, Pop and I went to Monaro Timber and picked up the wood for
the Spars. Total price $450.65 for 0.173 M3 @ $2368/M3
All the planks have been picked at appropriate lengths in order to
get all the staves without needing to scarf any lengths.
We also bought a Bote-Cote Epoxy Kit from Cape Boat Works including
filler, brushes measuring cup disposable brushes rollers mixing
sticks, gloves and more. Enough I hope to complete the entire boat.
Total Price $472.34
Prepare to RIP
Pop does a ritual dance of thanks to the spirits of the wood.
Other projects need to make way for our Caledonia Yawl
When pop said "Hang on I'll just move the horse." I was thinking of
saw horses not rocking horses.
Very long planks are hard to handle
Our Gaff plank ready to be ripped into 12mm staves. At this point we
had become quite expert at ripping up the planks to staves. I had
decided to begin with the Bumkin and Sprit which we ripped the
complete 16 staves from a single plank. We found that ripping the
birdsmouth into the 10mm staves was not as easy as it looked. I had
thought it would be easier to get some practice on the two smaller
spars. I was wrong the larger spars where much easier.
Ripping planks to staves
I fed the planks in and pop caught them.
Willow, stopped by to check on our safety procedures and that we
wearing appropriate PPE.
Getting ready to rip the Birdsmouth
Our table saw set up to rip the birdsmouth with the blade set to 45
degrees. I forgot to put the can of spray cooking oil in this shot.
Our first attempts to rip the 10mm staves caused a very dodgy
birdsmouth, we ripped the side out of the stave due to chattering and
the long very flexible stave bowing in the middle due to insufficient
support either end. After spraying the cooking oil on the jig the
staves moved much easier reducing chattering and additional supports
for the ends stopped bowing.
Ripping the 45
A close up showing how the blade set to 45 degrees rips the
birdsmouth into the stave. Two runs are required flipping the stave
over between each run in order to cut the V beak.
Table Saw Birdsmouth Jig
Another photograph of the birdsmouth jig set up with a stave being
ripped. Note the stick in the foreground used to push the end of the
stave through the saw, saving my fingers. Safety First.
A completed Birdsmouth
A nice clear shot of the V in the stave. Looks messy doesn't it. Both
ends of the stave become damaged when feeding the stave into the saw
and pulling the end out. The staves have been cut over long and I
will trim the ends off after the spars are completed and glued. I
have to admit that some of my birdsmouth's particularly on the
smaller staves for the bumkin and sprit are damaged in various places
along the length. The staves still assemble fine and I think the
damage will not make any difference when the stave is glued with
thickened epoxy. Don't sweat the small stuff I say. I think its
pretty pointless getting worried about small surface damage at this
point. Leave your staves rough sawn don't bother dressing them.
Marking out Tapers
In order to rip the tapers required into the staves we marked taper
stations and then used a spar to mark the taper on the stave. We then
ripped the taper off the stave freehand using the table saw and
carefully following the marked line. We then used the tapered stave
as a template to transfer the taper to the remaining 7 staves which
where then ripped freehand using the table saw. Pop thought that we
should probably plane the tapers neat to ensure that they where
exact. I decided not to I felt that the tapers where good enough and
that any small inaccuracies will be rectified when dressing up the
completed glued spar. If doesn't work out it was my call.
Look at the size of my Bumkin (That's a Nautical Bumkin not a Country
The completed bumkin pre assembled. Assembling the smaller spars was
very difficult the flexible stave would flick around and get tangled
with each other. We found that it went easier if I assembled right at
the end and Pop kept the other ends free and from tangling. Then with
the end assembled we would put a cable tie on and run the staves down
together from the end.
48 Staves, 6 Spars
We still need to glue the spars but we ran out of time today. Still
one day to Rip, Birdsmouth and Taper 48 Stave, 6 Spars is not bad
going as far as I'm concerned.
There seems to be much debate into Caledonia Yawl rig. For me there
was never any choice. If you know your Cal's you'll know by now that
I'm going the high peaked Gaff. For me it has nothing to do with
performance or extra complication of use it's all about the model
good looks. The Gaff is Gorgeous.
Spar Timber $450.65
Epoxy Kit $472.34
Lake Artemesia, College Park Md.
[CVS ISO200 > Nikon N80 Tamron 28-80 @ 0eV F8 > CVS develop, Epson V100 cae aec -2 dg 1.9 4800dpi > Gimp]
This shot on the other hand is a bit slow and consequently soft, with a non-VC lens. I took it at 0eV when I could have & should have taken it at -2eV not knowing it at the time ("Film: the first rolls") and I'm going to try this again in this light at -2eV. Also I have learned that I have to use a much higher USM radius with these large 4800dpi scans than I was using before with 12MP images, this is still a bit soft. And needs some fill-light (difficult to do this in Gimp as it has to be done with a layer and a brush, while a slider makes FL easy in Bibble, DxO, LR etc), this was taken just after the sun went below the trees to the left. A great example of what happens with wide-angle landscape shots taken after sunset. I didn't feel like fighting the brightness and contrast so I left the contrast maybe a touch low and the shot a touch dark.
By the way these shots are almost 3 years apart, this was taken in November 2010. The lake is still the same, and I'm still shooting it. The more things change, etc. This may seem to be a step backwards but I was willing to shoot slow here to see what the results looked like shooting film at 0eV vs -1eV, not being sure if I needed to be above 1/FL or 2/FL and not having the V100 at the time and not being sure if I needed to shoot the film at 0eV or -1eV or what. Not too bad but obviously the overall exposure is a challenge. I'd have to wrestle with this for an hour or two in Gimp to get it to look right.
Or just use the auto-wb and auto-tone in LR, or the lighting tools in DxO, whatever.
But without VR, especially with film, this is what happens if you get too slow handheld, things start to get soft. Gradually, slowly, not with a sharp break like with a VR lens. Completely up to you to hold the camera stable and here I was rushing a bit, walking around trying to get around the lake before it got too dark. Not entirely the fault of the film or scanner. However I have daylight shots of this same scene with comparably-cheap ISO200 Fujifilm and the same camera & lens at F11. But scanning at 4800dpi it won't matter if they aren't sharpened properly & given proper contrast, they will still look dull. In any case I wouldn't go under 2/FL handheld for any shots you really want to keep from a non-VR lens while with a VR lens you can pretty-much get away with anything over 1/20s. Meaning the non-VR 28mm lens should have only cost me 1 stop and I just wanted to see how that worked out at 0eV, that was the whole point of coming out here that evening. But in general I'd reduce the exposure to compensate and correct the wb and exposure later, and having sorted out the V100 I now know that even without VR I could have gotten this easily handheld at 28mm -1eV F6.3 or so, even with ISO200 film. I still need to run off some test shots at -2eV, -2.5eV and -3eV in low light with ISO200 and ISO400 film and I've yet to shoot ISO800 at all except for the one Kodak disposable. Again the concept is to be able to steal some decent handheld shots with 35mm film and a non-VR lens in low light that in the past I've shot either with a tripod or a good (expensive) fullframe DSLR and a VR lens handheld at ~1eV to -2eV. For daylight shots, scanned 35mm film is comfortably close enough to a good DSLR for me though obviously SLRs aren't as small and light as a G9. I don't need the results to be great, just decent. Dirt-cheap but reliable gear with adequate performance, low-cost film & development, free & easy scanning, moderate post-processing, acceptable IQ, I'm happy. Let me focus on the photography instead of the gear or the money to pay for it.
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