1984 FASHION STYLES

Paris Fashion: A Cultural History

Paris has been the international capital of style for three hundred years. Although challenged by other fashion cities such as Milan, London and New York, Paris remains special. This fascinating book shows that the strength of the French fashion industry rests on the depth and sophistication of its fashion culture. Revised and updated, Paris Fashion is reprinted here in paperback for the first time. More than just a history of famous designers and changing styles, the book is about fashion as a cultural ideal and a social phenomenon. By focusing on a ‘case study’ of Paris, Steele provides brilliant insights into the significance of fashion in modern urban society.

The author, an internationally recognized authority on the history of fashion, is the author of many books, including Fashion and Eroticism, Women of Fashion: 20th-Century Designers, Fetish: Fashion, Sex & Power, and Fifty Years of Fashion: New Look to Now.y

No.1 PARCO Limited[CWC] 2001.06
No.2 Mondrian 2001.06
No.3 Hollywood 2001.10
No.4 Rosie Red 2001.10
No.5 All Gold in One 2001.12
No.6 Kozy Kape Inspired 2001.12
No.7 Aztec Arrival Inspired 2002.02
No.8 Sunday Best 2002.03
No.9 Dottie Dot[Toys R Us] 2002.03
No.10 Miss Anniversary[CWC] 2002.06
No.11 Bohemian Beat 2002.07
No.12 Piccadilly Dolly[CWC] 2002.09
No.13 Asian Butterfly 2002.09
No.14 Skate Date 2002.11
No.15 Rouge Noir 2002.12
No.16 Cinnamon Girl 2003.02
No.17 Cherry Berry[Toys R Us] 2003.02
No.18 Excellent Hollywood 2003.02
No.19 Tea For Two 2003.03
No.20 Disco Boogie 2003.04
No.21 Bohemian Beats Again 2003.06
No.22 Courtney Tez by Nike[CWC 2th Anniversary] 2003.07
No.23 Love Mission 2003.07
No.24 Fancy Pansy[Toys R Us] 2003.07
No.25 Fruit Punch 2003.09
No.26 Very Cherry Berry[Toys R Us] 2003.10
No.27 Superior Skate 2003.12
No.28 Very Inspired by Pow Wow Poncho 2003.12
No.29 Velvet Minutet 2004.01
No.30 Silver Snow 2004.02
No.31 Sunday Very Best 2004.03
No.32 I Love You It's True 2004.03
No.33 Happy Everyday[CWC] 2004.04
No.34 Lounging Lovely 2004.05
No.35 French Trench 2004.06
No.36 Paradis by MONO COMME CA[CWC] 2004.06
No.37 Bardie Blue [Toys R Us] 2004.07
No.38 Art Attack[CWC 3rd Anniversary] 2004.07
No.39 Mademoiselle Rosebud 2004.08
No.40 Samedi Marche 2004.09
No.41 Groovy Groove 2004.10
No.42 Mitten by Blythe[CWC] 2004.11
No.43 Lil' Heart Blythe[CWC] 2004.12
No.44 Tweedly Do[Toys R Us] 2005.01
No.45 Inspired by Pinafore Purple 2005.02
No.46 Margaret Meets Ladybug[CWC] 2005.03
No.47 V Smash 2005.03
No.48 Candy Carnival 2005.05
No.49 Roxy Baby[CWC] 2005.07
No.50 Good Neighbor Cafe 2005.08
No.51 Cinema Princess[CWC 4th Anniversary] 2005.09
No.52 Tommy February Blythe[CWC] 2005.10
No.53 Samedi Marche Encore 2005.10
No.54 Asian Butterfly Encore 2005.10
No.55 Rendezvous Chou Chou[CWC] 2005.12
No.56 White Magic Morning[CWC] 2005.12
No.57 White Magic Afternoon 2005.12
No.58 Whtie Magic Night 2005.12
No.59 Merry Skier 2006.01
No.60 Cute and Curious[Toys R Us] 2006.02
No.61 Black Berry Bush[CWC] 2006.03
No.62 Tea For Two Encore 2006.04
No.63 Rosie Red Encore 2006.05
No.64 Strawberry Mille-feuille[CWC] 2006.06
No.65 Night Flower 2006.06
No.66 Honey Bunny Once More 2006.07
No.67 Prima Dolly Ashlet 2006.08
No.68 Prima Dolly Ginger 2007.08
No.69 Prima Dolly Violet 2007.08
No.70 Darling Diva[CWC 5th Anniversary] 2006.09
No.71 Piccadilly Dolly Encore 2006.09
No.72 Last Kiss[CWC] 2006.10
No.73 Star Dancer 2006.11
No.74 Yukinonamidahime[CWC] 2006.12
No.75 Ichigo Heaven[Toys R Us] 2006.12
No.76 Prima Dolly Melon[CWC] 2007.01
No.77 Feel The Sky 2007.01
No.78 Prima Dolly Aubrey 2007.02
No.79 Prima Dolly Saffy 2007.02
No.80 Prima Dolly Ebony 2007.02
No.81 Ultimate Tour[CWC] 2007.03
No.82 Tailor Gibson 2007.03
No.83 Rainy Day Parade 2007.04
No.84 Gentle River[CWC] 2007.05
No.85 My Best Friend 2007.06
No.86 Prima Dolly Peach[CWC] 2007.07
No.87 Save The Animals 2007.07
No.88 Princess a la mode[CWC 6th Anivassary] 2007.08
No.89 Hello Harvest 2007.08
No.90 Prima Dolly Cassis[CWC] 2007.09
No.91 Cloud 9 Bowl[Toys R Us] 2007.09
No.92 Dainty Biscuit 2007.09
No.93 Mrs. Retro Mama[CWC] 2007.10
No.94 Enchated Petal 2007.11
No.95 Angelica Eve 2007.11
No.96 Odekake Kimono Musume[CWC] 2007.12
No.97 Mod Molly 2007.12
No.98 Welcom Winter 2008.01
No.99 Primadolly Encore Ashlette 2008.01
No.100 Primadolly Encore Saffy 2008.01
No.101 Primadolly Encore Aubrey 2008.01
No.102 Happy Harbor 2008.02
No.103 Natasha Moore 2008.03
No.104 Heart of Montmartre[CWC] 2008.04
No.105 Can Can Cat 2008.05
No.106 Precocious Candy's Mush Room[CWC] 2008.05
No.107 Prima Dolly Peony[CWC] 2008.06
No.108 Denizens of the Lake "Christina the Bride"[CWC 7th Anniversary] 2008.07
No.109 Denizens of the Lake "Eleanor the Forest Dancer"[CWC 7th Anniversary] 2008.07
No.110 Milky Way Sugar 2008.07
No.111 Miss Sally Rice 2008.08
No.112 Bow Wow Trad 2008.08
No.113 Cousin Olivia 2008.09
No.114 Prima Dolly Amaryllis[CWC] 2008.09
No.115 Veronica Lace 2008.10
No.116 Frosty Frock 2008.11
No.117 Primadolly Violetina 2008.12
No.118 Primadolly Ashletina 2008.12
No.119 Primadolly Aubrena 2008.12
No.120 Primadolly Marigold[CWC] 2008.12
No.121 Matyoshka Maiden[Toys R Us] 2008.12
No.122 Princess Milk BisQuit de Q-pot.[CWC] 2009.01
No.123 Cappuccino Chat 2009.01
No.124 Friendly Freckles 2009.02
No.125 My Little Candy[Top Shop] 2009.02
No.126 Doronjo x Blythe[CWC] 2009.02
No.127 Bloomy Bloomsbury[CWC] 2009.03
No.128 Prima Dolly Adorable Aubrey 2009.03
No.129 Prima Dolly Winsome Willow 2009.03
No.130 Prima Dolly Heather Sky 2009.03
No.131 Sunshine Holiday 2009.04
No.132 le jardin de maman[CWC] 2009.05
No.133 Casual Affair

In 1931 Sidney Myer (1878 – 1934) Russian emigre turned Melbourne businessman and philanthropist decided to reinvigorate his store the Myer Emporium by redeveloping his flagship Bourke Street store at 314-336 Bourke Street. Part of this included a new facade in the prevailing interwar style of the time – Art Deco and the addition of several more floors to what was already a very large department store. On the sixth floor a chic European style ballroom with soaring ceilings, sweeping stairs and parquet flooring was planned for use by the emporium’s patrons as a dining room by day and in which Myer could host Parisian fashion shows and hold exclusive Melbourne society events by night. The Myer Mural Hall, so called because of an impressive collection of ten murals by Australian artist Napier Waller, was the realisation of Sidney Myer’s dream.

The Mural Hall, a dining hall suitable for a sitting for one thousand people and a venue for fashion parades and performances, was completed in 1933 as part of the sixth floor which was set aside for dining. It is a large rectangular space with a decorative plaster ceiling and balconies and wall panels in a Streamline Moderne style. However, it is the decoration of ten murals by renowned artist Napier Waller (1893-1972) that are the Mural Hall’s claim to fame. The murals took a little over a year to complete and were painted at Napier Waller’s home at Fairy Hills in Ivanhoe before being transported to the department store where they were hung. Completed in 1934, just after Sidney Myer’s death, eight of the murals are almost floor to ceiling, whilst the remaining two are located over the two side entrances. All pay homage to the seasons and to women and their achievements through history in the areas of art, opera, literature, dance, sport and fashion.

The eastern wall features a mural "Revelation of Fashion". It features: a statue of Venus, the Goddess of love and beauty; costumes from the late 11th Century medieval period; dress from 1520 during the Tudor period; 16th Century Renaissance fashion, the Elizabethan style of the latter half of the 16th Century; court dress from 1625 during the reign of James I; the court dress from 1633 during the reign of Charles I; court dress from 1680 during the reign of Charles II; court dress from 1702 during the reign of Queen Anne; formal dress from the court of Louis XVI in 1780; the garb of the French Revolution (1794 – 1799); the empire line of Napoleon Bonaparte’s court in 1803; fashions from the reign of George IV; Victorian era crinolines of 1840; fashions from the reign of Edward VII in 1901; and the current fashions of 1933 during the reign of George V (no doubt available on the lower floors of the Myer Emporium).

Napier Waller (1893 – 1972) was a noted Australian muralist, mosaicist and painter. He served in France from 1916, being so seriously wounded at Bullecourt that he lost his right arm. He was right-handed but learned to use his left hand while recuperating. Back in Australia, he established his reputation by exhibiting more paintings. He is perhaps best known for the mosaics and stained glass for the Hall of Memory at the Australian War Memorial, Canberra, completed in 1958. However, Melbourne has been described as "a gallery of Napier Waller’s work". Pieces of Napier Waller’s works may be found in the Melbourne Town Hall (1927), the State Library of Victoria (1928), the T & G Life Building (1929), Newspaper House (1933), Florentino’s Restaurant (1934), the Wesley Church (1935) and the University of Melbourne (1940) as well as the Myer Mural Hall.

One of The New York Times Book Review’s 10 Best Books of the Year

For more than four hundred years, the art of ballet has stood at the center of Western civilization. Its traditions serve as a record of our past. A ballerina dancing The Sleeping Beauty today is a link in a long chain of dancers stretching back to sixteenth-century Italy and France: Her graceful movements recall a lost world of courts, kings, and aristocracy, but her steps and gestures are also marked by the dramatic changes in dance and culture that followed. Ballet has been shaped by the Renaissance and Classicism, the Enlightenment and Romanticism, Bolshevism, Modernism, and the Cold War. Apollo’s Angels is a groundbreaking work—the first cultural history of ballet ever written, lavishly illustrated and beautifully told.

Ballet is unique: It has no written texts or standardized notation. It is a storytelling art passed on from teacher to student. The steps are never just the steps—they are a living, breathing document of a culture and a tradition. And while ballet’s language is shared by dancers everywhere, its artists have developed distinct national styles. French, Italian, Danish, Russian, English, and American traditions each have their own expression, often formed in response to political and societal upheavals.

From ballet’s origins in the Renaissance and the codification of its basic steps and positions under France’s Louis XIV (himself an avid dancer), the art form wound its way through the courts of Europe, from Paris and Milan to Vienna and St. Petersburg. It was in Russia that dance developed into the form most familiar to American audiences: The Sleeping Beauty, Swan Lake, and The Nutcracker originated at the Imperial court. In the twentieth century, emigre dancers taught their art to a generation in the United States and in Western Europe, setting off a new and radical transformation of dance.

Jennifer Homans is a historian and critic who was also a professional dancer: She brings to Apollo’s Angels a knowledge of dance born of dedicated practice. She traces the evolution of technique, choreography, and performance in clean, clear prose, drawing readers into the intricacies of the art with vivid descriptions of dances and the artists who made them. Her admiration and love for the ballet shines through on every page. Apollo’s Angels is an authoritative work, written with a grace and elegance befitting its subject.

A Look Inside Apollo's Angels

Rubies
Photo by Costas
Serenade
Photo by Costas

Nutcracker Snowflakes
Photo by Costas
Nikolaj Hubbe in La Sylphide
Photo by Costas

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